July 2, 2008 –
What do you think about having your horse worked on by an equine chiropractor?
Is this a real thing?
Equine chiropractors do in fact adjust horses, and from what I can tell, horses do seem not only to enjoy the process, but can also obtain benefit from it.
You should contact a trained equine chiropractor in your area to get more information, and to schedule an appointment.
They can be particularly helpful if your horse seems "off" without stronger signs of why he is "off. "
Try it and see.
July 1, 2008 –
Is keeping the shavings banked during the day when my horse is out on turnout the right thing to do?
I have heard people say that it is so as to allow the rubber mat in the middle to dry out.
I'm not so sure that is the right thing to do.
The banked shavings, through the extra weight, will accumulate more decomposition of the left-over used shavings that inevitably mix in with the clean.
Overall, I think you'll end up with a dirtier stall than if you'd spread it all out evenly after cleaning.
Also, the area that needs drying out is underneath the mat — not on top of the mat, and the banked shaving plan doesn't affect that at all.
Keep in mind that the area underneath the mat is not usually an issue anyway because there are shavings on top.
As long as the ventilation is good and drawing the ammonia out, you should have no problems.
June 30, 2008 –
When should I consider putting my aged horse down?
Very old horses go through challenges as they age which hurt their quality of life.
First, their teeth lose the ability to effectively grind up their food.
Next, their guts lose the ability to draw nourishment from the food they do ingest.
Over time, an aged horse will start to metabolize muscle tissue and will suffer increasing joint pain and overall weakness.
Eventually, they will fall down and not be able to rise again, which will cause them to die in a very painful way as their body weight suffocates their lungs and other organs.
This progress is slow, and not all that easy to see if the horse is still asking for his food and appears to be interested in life.
I think the shorter answer is, if you can keep weight on your horse, then he is still in the game.
If he skeletalizes in front of you despite the best of care, including food, exercise, and veterinary assistance, then it's time.
These are hard decisions, but sometimes necessary.
June 27, 2008 –
I have just begun to ride my two-year-old, half mustang/half quarter horse gelding.
Before riding, I work him in the round pen, and almost every time he threatens to kick while being worked and acts unusually aggressive (but isn't normally).
Could you please help me find out why?
Is the round pen making him feel claustrophobic or does he just not want to be worked?
I would really appreciate your expert advice.
This situation warrants caution for both you and your horse.
A round pen is usually so small that if a horse feels too threatened, he may charge you, which of course would be very dangerous in such tight quarters.
What are the indicators that lead you to believe he is being aggressive rather than frightened?
If aggressive, then you need to do ground work aimed at enforcing your primary status, which does not have to occur in the round pen necessarily.
If frightened, then slow down and relieve the cause of his anxiety.
Threatening to kick is a strong editorial opinion, and he can be convinced that such displays are a bad idea (see my previous post on this topic).
Also, try lunging for fifteen minutes or so before working him, just as a way to prevent the lesson from occurring when he is too fresh.
Then, aim on small incremental progress each day, lasting no more than 10 minutes or so for the heart of the lesson.
Insist on good behavior during the lesson, and mix things up: don't do the same thing time after time.
Take a walk out of the round pen; investigate new things; make it fun for the horse.
Reinforce what he has learned already before starting something new, and praise him when he does it right.
At any rate, if the aggression continues, get expert help.
Safety is the number one concern here, so be careful!
June 26, 2008 –
What do I do if my horse runs away with me?
Hope that you're not in a forest at the time.
The best way to manage a bolting horse is to sit way down in the saddle, grab the reins with one in each hand, and then pull on one rein, in effect, leading the horse around in a circle.
As you go, bring the horse into a tighter and tighter circle.
Eventually the horse will get tired of looking at the same landscape over and over again and stop.
Very rarely, a horse will have the ability to run straight ahead with its head pulled all the way around to the side.
In that case, you're doomed and I have no other suggestions except to abandon ship at the location of your choice, as it speeds by at 30 miles per hour.
Good LUCK!!!!
June 25, 2008 –
I am planning a breeding program here in France, and in fact, import my first stallion from the US in July.
I am also importing some fillies in February of next year.
The buying contracts I receive do not offer any protection to the buyer.
Can I find somewhere a standard buying agreement which would protect us better?
As much as I wish there were a standard contract for buying horses, in fact, there isn't.
Even adapting someone else's contract for your own use, which many people do, lays you open to possible unforeseen and often unpleasant consequences as a result of leftover language in the contract that does not suit your particular deal or the particular law of your jurisdiction.
And in your case, because you're in France, you'd have to address the issue of whose law would be controlling in the event of a problem, which, if you did not address, would likely automatically revert to French law.
If the horse involved is worth peanuts, then you might not worry about any problems just because the horse isn't worth any fight that occurs.
But where the horse's value increases, this is one area where running the contract by an equine lawyer would definitely be worth the investment.
Think about your concerns when buying a house or a piece of land, or any other high-value item — you would not leave it to your own draftsmanship in that case, I'm sure.
At any rate, that's my two cents worth!
June 23, 2008 –
What is the best way to ride a horse that is really, really fresh and wants to go go go?
I think I must be doing something wrong because my mare just keeps wanting to go faster and faster.
Your riding style may, indeed, be contributing to the problem.
Some riders bounce up and down on their horse's kidneys so hard that the horse perceives it as the command to run.
This disorder is affectionately and colloquially known as "electric butt".
Other riders, in response to the surges forward by the horse, stand in the stirrups and position their center of gravity slightly ahead of the horse.
In response, the horse naturally wants to move forward to correct the imbalance, leading to a "rocket ride".
The way to fix both problems is to sit down.
Make the horse carry your weight.
Relax down and towards the back of the saddle and don't let your rump off of it.
After a few moments, most horses perceive the drag as the command to slow down, and do.
Even if they don't do so immediately, they'll get more tired more quickly and eventually slow down, and you'll know that you're not contributing to your own "rocket ride".
If you do this enough, the horse will finally figure out that the "sit down" is the command to slow down, and your problem will be magically solved.
June 21, 2008 –
Does the Berry pulley bridle really work?
I have read a lot of articles that claim to work wonders and I don't really have the money to spend if this doesn't work.
All pulley bridles work on the principle of increased force at various parts of the horse's mouth, and in the hands of the learned, they can indeed be a useful aid.
However, if misused, the added leverage can injure the horse's mouth just as a long-shank bit can.
This is a short and fancy way of saying, it might be useful in your case or it might not.
Not knowing why you're considering purchase of a pulley bridle, I have to suggest that you seek expert training advice about your particular application.
June 20, 2008 –
I am a trail rider with a grade mare with a quarter horse build.
The saddle slips forward when going down hills.
I have tried tightening the cinch and have bought a nonslip saddle pad which has helped some but has not solved the problem.
I am thinking of using a crupper but rarely see them used except on mules.
Is there a reason they should not be used on horses?
I am tired of getting off at the bottom of hills to reposition my saddle.
By all means use a crupper.
Endurance riders do use cruppers fairly often just for the reason you mention: it helps keep the saddle positioned in the right spot.
As you've noticed, the alternatives to cruppers don't seem to work very well.
June 19, 2008 –
My 11 yr. old is learning and enjoying Barrel Racing.
He is developing a crest, especially during the summer, which started in March this year.
I've recently had a blood test drawn for thyroid problems.
We also have a new filly on the farm which he seems to want to kill.
What else can cause this cresty neck?
Though I'm not a vet, you are asking me to play one, as on TV.
Well, because free opinions are worth what you pay for them, here goes.
The cresty neck issue brings a number of things to mind.
First, overweight Morgans will develop a cresty neck.
Though I don't assume your horse is overweight, look at that issue.
Next, look at the metabolic disorder "EMS" (Equine Metabolic Syndrome).
EMS horses have a characteristic "look" about them, including a cresty neck, (though they may not be overweight), puffiness about the eyes, "lumpy" fat deposits around the tail, head and behind the withers, and later, a loss of overall body condition, a sort of "sagging" look.
EMS horses also have a lowered immune system.
Sinus and tooth infections are fairly common.
This needs real, expert, veterinary advice.
I mention it in order that you consult an expert, which is not me.
Finally, a horse with a testicle remaining in the body cavity, (a cryptorchid), may retain stud-like characteristics though nominally a gelding.
I would hope you would have noticed this tendency before now, so it may be less likely.
Again, a vet is your best resource on this.
June 18, 2008 –
I would like to establish a horse rescue and have several questions.
Where would I find the most affordable land with good grass for grazing (not necessarily in CA).
Since many or most horses will have had poor to abusive care, how do I educate myself so that the horses and I stay safe.
Might I get a government grant to help with the purchase of the land and continuing care for the horses?
I am not sure where "the most affordable land" for grazing might be, and am not sure that that should be the highest criteria, either.
I mean, you likely could find some very affordable land very far away from most folks, which would mean that all of your "rescues" would not be able to get to you at all.
That and your hay, grain, etc., would all be difficult to get and expensive to move, given the high cost of diesel nowadays.
Aim for the best land YOU can afford closest to YOU.
Either that or just bite the bullet: move to Kentucky, where you'll find BOTH good grass AND lots of horses in the vicinity.
Location aside, you have two challenges here: getting the practical knowledge necessary to be able to take care of horses, and also, how to make the venture self supporting.
Regarding the first, you may not have the experience, but you can certainly hire or rent the necessary "know how".
Get a good vet, close enough to make frequent calls, read up on horse nutrition, and hire someone who does have experience.
That should be enough inventory in the knowledge department to move forward.
The second problem is a bit more difficult.
Many horse rescues try to make it as "charitable organizations" as recognized under state and federal tax laws.
Therefore, they spend a fair amount of time in fund raising to support their charitable purpose.
As a charity, funds can come from individuals, businesses, or from grants.
Getting the charitable designation, or "501 C" from the IRS is difficult and you need expert advice from an accountant and an attorney on this one.
Once you've been designated a charity, you can raise funds through solicitations and accept donations.
Grants require the ability to ask for something specific ("horse rescue" is usually not specific enough) plus a proven track record to show the grant organizers that you can deliver on their money.
You can start by searching the Internet on this topic.
There are many out there that have done this and written about it, so a little research can be very helpful.
Good luck with the venture!
June 17, 2008 –
My quarter horse gelding is 10 years old and I've had him for 3 years.
We were told he was previously a working ranch horse, but the prior owners used him for occasional trail riding and mostly a pet.
He has a sweet personality, loves attention from people, and comes willingly — no problem to catch.
He seems to have an aversion to a bit — always playing with his tongue or trying to spit it out, and doesn't like to accept it when putting on the bridle (raises his head high — it's always a fight).
We're just now getting back to riding frequently since before winter.
He neck reins well and will back when asked, but forward motion in the round pen has become an extreme challenge — he will lead with bit in and rider aboard, but refuses to move without the ground lead.
Is he protesting the bit?
It's a soft bit "tom thumb" style.
Some have told me he needs his teeth floated — but the vet said they were not bad.
What do you think?
It does sound as though your horse is very clearly telling you he does not like that bit.
Tom Thumbs are not all that gentle, keep in mind, as they are a combination of a snaffle (broken in the middle) with a Pelham (shank).
Therefore, the Tom Thumb has a "twist" to it that some horses reject.
You might consider picking either a snaffle (lighter) or a Pelham (straight across with a shank to it) which is also light if the shanks are short, but has the stop power you may need.
There is another product out there, called Lickity Bits which is sweet and gives horses something to really enjoy on the bit itself once you decide which style might work.
It can be useful to initially build trust with him again.
Consider also using a drop noseband that doesn't let him open his mouth too wide.
Don't cinch the noseband too tight, it should just be there to prevent his evasion from the bit action.
If that does not work, let me ask, have you ever used a hackamore?
I only mention this because ranch horses are sometimes trained on hackamores and later have trouble adjusting to other bits.
These are just some suggestions.
Whataver you do, though, keep in mind that the fix here may just be paying more attention.
That is, a horse that "mouths" the bit is preferable to one who sets his jaw against it, and what you're trying to do is to get your horse to move out, which is a different issue than the bitting issue.
Try these ideas and see what happens.
June 16, 2008 –
Hello, I have a Newfoundland Pony Mare, 14.2 hands high.
A pretty blue roan.
Now she is full of attitude.
Even the odd bucking from time to time.
She's gone to trainers 3 times for months at a time, but still she's quite the boss mare with a few tricks up her "mane".
We've bonded pretty well and she trusts me.
But why can't I figure her out?
I want to be able to feel safe riding her, but I never know what is going to happen.
She panics when I try to lunge her as well.
When I try to get her to rid some hyperness.
What to do?
Ponies do have their own mind, as you may have noticed.
You may never figure out what she may do next.
The real issue isn't what she is liable to do, which you have already noticed is unpredictable, but whether you feel confident that you can be secure no matter what that is.
Your mention of the "odd" bucking from time to time leads me to believe that she is under-worked and fresh, and that in turns leads me to believe that you may not be riding her as much as you might, because of this issue.
Certainly, if she starts tearing around the ring when you lunge her, that may be panic, but it also could be high spirits.
In either event, more training of both her and you would be helpful.
I've written in the past about this issue of rider confidence, and given some hints on how to gain more confidence.
Certainly, consistency and hard work, applied to you both from the hands of a professional, would be very helpful.
Try that and see.
The main ingredient here will be work!
Good luck and let me know how it goes.
June 14, 2008 –
I have a 2yr old colt that I have raised from day one and he likes to nip and sometimes bite at me.
He is smart and likes to be handled.
I ride him in the round pen and he likes that, but what can I do to get him to stop the nipping and biting?
A two year old colt is the human equivalent of a very fresh and mouthy teenage boy.
Without verbal skills, the poor thing is reduced to just being mouthy.
But do not fear, both mothers and drill sergeants can teach the meaning of the word respect, and I bet you can too.
Carry a crop and apply IMMEDIATE corrective action whenever he nips along with the word "NO!!!" said with TERRIBLE FORCE!
I bet it will take no more than three nip occurrences, each followed by a whack for biting.
This is one "cause and effect" you want him to understand right away.
With the first one he'll be stunned; with the second one, he'll understand; and the third nip and correction, if there is one, will convince him that you really mean it.
You may have to reapply this corrective action from time to time as he tests to see if your resolve is still firm.
Let me know how it goes.
June 13, 2008 –
I finally got my 3 year old thoroughbred in training for racing.
I went two months later to watch her breeze.
The Trainer said she has been working too slow and she has more in the tank.
When encouraged, her tail flags up and down.
I videoed the breeze, slowed it down, and found the foot fall off.
The trainer is working her in a running martingale a little restricted.
The front looks like she's swimming and has too much air time.
She is reaching, but the second phase of the footfall (diagonal pair) is off and the hind hits down when the fore is still in the air.
That should have been together.
Have any ideas what is going on?
Thanks
Believe it or not, horses need practice at running.
It sounds as though your horse has not yet figured out the best stride for the "all out" effort and is injecting an editorial opinion as to the urging.
Do not feel bad.
This is not unusual.
Sometime, if you feel like a giggle, go to the races and watch the races for the first time efforts.
The babies spend more time going up and sideways than they do forward.
It is comical to watch.
Nevertheless, with practice, they do figure it out over time.
The biggest challenge is to keep them interested in the effort long enough to get them over this initial "figuring it out" stage.
Like people, the beginning stages are a delicate time.
I bet your trainer has views on this, and should be willing to talk about it sometime.
See what he says.
June 12, 2008 –
Floating teeth: Other than seeing an obvious problem like dropping grain, how often should a teenager or older be floated?
My farrier says hardly ever.
I thought it should be checked every year.
Different vets I have dealt with over the years handle it doing it yearly and some say not this year.
Regarding the timing of floating teeth, it really depends on the horse and what he is eating and how fast his teeth are growing.
You can feel the "points" by running a finger up the side of the row of molars, and also if the horse starts dropping grain, tossing his head when you pull on the reins, and so forth.
You should examine the issue with a professional no less than every two years.
Once the horse figures out that the gadget you stick into his mouth doesn't hurt, the rasp noise is kind of soothing, and it feels better when you're done, he'll stand there all day patiently for the procedure.
Horses are smarter than people think.
June 11, 2008 –
What are some common indications that your horse is bored when left in his stall?
Think of a two or three year old confined in a small room.
What might they get into?
Stall walking, weaving, chewing on things, charging the door when you get near it, cribbing, doing unspeakably vile things with their water buckets....the list goes on and on.
Don't let it come to that.
Let your horse out of solitary confinement!
June 10, 2008 –
Do horses get heat stroke?
What are the signs?
Horses can, in fact, get overheated, moving into heat exhaustion, and followed by heat stroke.
Though they have an excellent cooling mechanism in the volume of sweat they can produce, they are very large animals with a lot of muscle mass that produces a lot of heat.
Lots of muscles also need lots of water and electrolytes to balance the work load.
This is because when muscles contract, potassium passes out of the cells while sodium and chloride are absorbed into the cells.
The body fluid composition outside the cells need to contain adequate electrolytes for this transfer to take place or the horse will "tie up", which is a serious condition that can lead to muscle damage and even death.
A horse that is dehydrated has lost body fluids and the electrolytes found in them.
He will exhibit muscle fatigue, a lack of will to win, poor recovery from exercise and/or skin, which when pinched, will be slow to return to normal.
Good feeding practices of an electrolyte balanced feed and steady opportunities to water during hot weather will help prevent dehydration.
If your horse does become dehydrated during work, get off, get into the shade, hose the horse off, use fans, give water, and for milder dehydration, you can administer oral electrolytes with feed, drinking water or oral paste.
For severe dehydration, do all of the above, PLUS, you need to call a vet immediately as this is a dangerous and life-threatening condition.
Heat exhausted horses will show increased heart and respiratory rates, may sweat profusely, and as heat exhaustion advances, the horse may become dehydrated and his sweat mechanism may fail, further reducing his ability to remove body heat.
The horse may become dull, restless and uncoordinated.
More severely affected horses may show "thumps" (spasmodic jerking of the diaphragm and/or flanks), or even collapse and go into convulsions.
If the horse's body temperature stays above 107 degrees F to 109 degrees F for more than a short period of time, he will probably die.
A horse that has passed into heat stroke can no longer sweat and is at severe risk.
Avoid giving your horse heat stroke by using common sense in both work and in trailering, and especially watch your horse carefully for these signs during very hot weather.
June 9, 2008 –
How fast can a horse run?
The running breeds can run pretty fast (Thoroughbred - 40MPH for distance, Quarter Horse - 50MPH for short bursts).
Check out these statistics from:
Horse Speed in MPH – How Fast Is Your Horse Going?
How Far, How Fast Can Horses Go?
"5/9/82, a horse named 'Petro Jay' ran 6 furlongs at Turf Paradise, AZ, and had a time of 1:07.2 and ran 40.18 mph"; and
"The Akhal-Teke, a rare breed from Turkmenistan, is known for its excellent endurance.
In 1935, the historic ride that this breed is famous started.
Twenty-eight riders on Akhal-tekes rode 2,600 miles from Ashkabad to Moscows, including 215 across the harsh Kara Kum desert without water (where temperatures can reach 149F).
They finished in eighty-four days."
That's and average of 31 miles each day.
Sure puts a two hour trail ride in perspective, doesn't it?
June 8, 2008 –
Can you feed a horse right after exercise?
Typically the issue is whether the horse is still hot and sweaty from the exercise.
Once he is "cooled out" you can feed, and it is always best to start with a hay appetizer before moving onto the grain.
June 7, 2008 –
What does "stands and nurses" mean in a breeding contract?
It means that you typically do not owe the stud fee money until the resulting foal stands and nurses after the birth.
So, in cases where the foal slips or is born dead, you do not need to pay the stud fee.
June 6, 2008 –
I was wondering how I go about getting a stud for my Quarter Horse mare to breed. Magnolia, Texas.
The American Quarter Horse Association has a website that will allow you to search for Quarter Horse stallions in your area.
I took a quick look and saw a number of stallions standing in Texas.
You didn't say what you wanted to do with the foal, but keep in mind that Quarter Horses can vary widely depending on their intended use, whether very muscled and "bulldoggy" type, or much more Thoroughbred in appearance, which is helpful in the Quarter Horse racing circuit.
Breed for the type you want, depending on what you want to do.
Also, be careful to read the fine print on the stallion contract.
Good luck and have fun!
June 5, 2008 –
I read this morning about Big Brown's "quarter crack."
What is a quarter crack anyway?
The horse's hoof has a leading edge in front, and a heel in back; the side area of the hooves are known as the "quarters".
The hoof wall there is thinner than in the front and originates cracks, which can start from the coronary band (aka the "coronet band", near the hairline at the top) or from the bottom.
The crack can be superficial in depth, or can go right through to the meat, so to speak.
The fix for a quarter crack is a long, slow regrowing of the hoof, with special farrier work to support the foot while that happens.
A horse can work during the regrowth, and inventive use of shoes and glue can literally keep the foot together.
June 4, 2008 – My husband wondered if we can reuse the poop the horses are putting in the pasture to re-grow the grass?
I said no because that's not good hygiene for the horses it would give them worms?
Please help.
Regarding putting manure on grass, that's not a good idea, straight from the horse so to speak.
Manure needs composting before it will not burn the grass, or spread worms.
June 3, 2008 – I'm new at this passion and trying to learn everything I can to take care of our two horses the right way.
We noticed our two horses are getting bitten by some rather big horseflies.
We are using a repellent, but it doesn't phase them at all.
What else can we use so the two horses won't get bitten?
Growing up on a Missouri farm, I think I know the kind of horseflies you mean: large, fast, and quite capable of driving a horse mad.
In addition to fly repellent, you can get fly headgear (flymasks) and flysheets.
The flysheets should be well fitted to prevent rubbing.
These can really help in fly season.
I performed a search (enter flymasks or flysheets as the query) on QueryHorse and found lots of information on this topic, so try that and let us know how you make out.
June 2, 2008 – What is the best way to learn how to ride?
Western or English?
Is one faster than another?
Riding western, with the saddle horn there to hold onto, neck reining with one hand, longer stirrups, and a bigger and more supportive saddle is certainly easier on novice riders.
English riding demands more contact with both hands and legs, and so, learning how to control hands, legs, and body position while riding in an English saddle will force a new rider to work harder, and so learn faster, in my opinion.
But both ways of riding can be learned quickly with just one recipe: lots of riding.
Have fun!
May 31, 2008 – My horse is now two years old and weighs 900 lbs.
When he was a year and a half, he started gaining a lot of weight, and everybody told me that he looked chubby.
Now he is losing his weight and gaining a lot of muscle.
I can feel his hip bones and all of his ribs.
I wouldn't say that he is skinny, he's just not as fat as before.
He is up to date on all his shots and worming.
Am I feeding him enough?
How much does a two year old normally eat?
I'll give general nutrition guidelines, but that in no way is meant to relieve you of the duty to go forth and learn about this yourself through research on QueryHorse or any of the other search engines.
There is an old saying, "a horse grows fat under the eye of the master" which means, roughly speaking, that it is your obligation to learn as much about this large topic as possible.
Keep in mind that a horse evolved to move around and eat grass all day long, and so the domestic horse's routine of standing all day with only one or two big meals is a recipe for gut disaster.
Therefore, try very hard to let him eat a little, all day long, or risk your horse's health.
Here are the guidelines:
- Water: As much water as the horse will drink, freely available, as well as free choice salt.
- Hay: 1 pound of hay per 100 pounds of body weight.
So, a 1,000 pound horse would have a minimum of 10 pounds of hay.
The best thing is to allow your horse to eat free-choice hay, or as much as he wants, or no less than three times a day at a minimum, to promote the health of his digestive system.
- Grain: My suggestion is to go to this website for guidance:
http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ansci/horse/as953w.htm
Here is a pertinent quote:
"The basic feed requirements of the horse are relatively simple.
As a general rule of thumb, a horse will typically consume 10 to 12 gallons of water, greater than or equal to 1.0 percent of body weight in forage, and less than or equal to 1.0 percent of body weight in concentrate per day.
Horses should also be given free choice salt."
So, feed the grain (900 pound horse is 9 pounds of grain or roughly two big scoops per day total) in no less than two portions or more per day.
If your horse gets too fat, cut back.
If he is too skinny, add on.
Make changes incrementally until you are satisfied with his weight.
The amounts will change over time depending on how much work your horse is doing, and how much growing he is doing.
You did not say what breed your horse is, or how much work he does, but keep in mind that some horses are easy keepers; for example, quarter horses and ponies, even in work, may not need much beyond hay.
Let your horse's appearance be your guide on that one, but remember, an overweight horse is not a healthy horse.
A shiny coat, defined muscles, padding on the croup, and an interest in life, are all good indications that you're doing the right thing with the amount of feed.
Keep in mind that the kind of feed used will also be important.
New studies are showing that some horses do not handle feed well that has a high sugar content, which, for example, that beloved horse staple, sweet feed, is chock full of.
Sometimes, horses also need more protein than at other times.
As I said, do some investigation.
A good quality pellet is what I feed my horses, but you'll have to make up your own mind on that.
Good luck!
May 30, 2008 – Can entire breeds of horses be one color only?
It seems like this could be done.
Sure does, doesn't it?
And in some cases, it has been done.
Colors which are expressed through dominant genes, such as black, have indeed been, in certain breeds, "fixed" to the breed type.
For example, Friesian horses are black.
However, this can't be done with other colors such as palomino horses; in fact, if you breed a palomino to a palomino you will get a palomino baby only half of the time.
To get a palomino, it is said that if you breed a cremello horse to a chestnut horse, you'll get a palomino horse 100 per cent of the time.
In any event, I find the whole issue fascinating, because of the implication for breeding true for other traits as well.
I have, for example, noticed the number of big chestnut racehorses (Eclipse, Man O War, Secretariat, and Curlin).
Is this merely coincidence?
I have no idea.
Sure would be fun to find out.
May 29, 2008 –
I own a barn and want to go away on vacation.
Should I have whoever watches the barn sign anything?
I know how hard it is to get someone to take over the reins for any length of time.
Ownership of a barn should not mean slavery.
However, if you don't have an employee doing this for you, for whom you have presumably already indoctrinated as to the correct way to do things, and you import a friend or relative, then be aware that you'll be on the hook for whatever silly action that person may take.
For example, leaving the horses to wander out on the highway, etc.
(Don't laugh. It happens.)
If you're paying that person, you could likely get the person to sign a waiver of liability for that period of time that you're out of pocket.
Maybe.
Consult an equine attorney.
And in no event should your vacation be ruined by any worries or fears in this respect.
Much.
(Shooting the messenger is not an appropriate response.)
May 28, 2008 –
My question is what type of gear for rider and horse for endurance riding.
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
There's actually a lot of gear available specifically for endurance riding.
An obvious start is the endurance saddle style produced by many saddle manufacturers.
You may also have heard about "biothane", a narrow coated webbing that is strong and comes in almost every color.
It's popular with endurance riders because it lasts a long time through heavy use and is available in headstalls, reins, breastplates, and more.
One of the best places to learn about endurance riding gear, the riding itself, and endurance events is at the endurance Website: www.endurance.net.
At the bottom of the home page, you'll find a large list of advertisers for everything endurance from training to gear and tack.
May 27, 2008 – How can a horse breathe while choking?
A human windpipe and a horse windpipe are similar in some respects, but different in others.
Both windpipes and gullets go through the same general area at the back of the throat.
But with the horse, the design is different and much more effective at stopping food from going down the windpipe and into the lungs.
When the horse is active, the larynx forms an almost airtight seal over the gullet.
The soft palate, which extends from the roof of the mouth, brings air over it and down the windpipe.
This provides a very smooth surface for air to flow without obstruction and makes the horse's breathing efficient, especially when running or working hard.
When eating, the soft palate moves to block the back of the nasal passages to stop food from going into the nostrils while the larynx closes to stop food from going into the windpipe.
This results in advantages and disadvantages.
A disadvantage is that horses cannot vomit and once food passes through this area, it MUST go through the digestive system.
That's why colic is so dangerous — there's no other way to get a bad batch of feed out except through the horse.
Conversely, the risk of blocking the airway with food is small and most choking of a horse is an obstruction of the gullet and not the breathing passages.
Of course, this doesn't mean that choking isn't dangerous — it can be very dangerous.
But, it does mean the horse can usually breathe, and so, isn't limited to the four or five critical minute timeframe people have when choking.
That said, if your horse is choking, don't waste any time.
Call your vet immediately and let him or her diagnose the problem and the fix — your horse's life could depend on it.
May 26, 2008 – I currently board my twenty four year old mare, and one of the other horses has attacked my horse and kicked her hard with both rear feet twice that I have witnessed.
No warning that I saw.
Is this an attack on me as well as my horse since the other horse attacked "my herd?"
What can I do to protect my horse?
Although I don't put it past the capability of a horse to include you in a group of "the detested", what you describe sounds more like the routine humiliation and oppression of the lower orders that goes on in horse pecking order maintenance.
The problem is, of course, that such routine displays can in fact seriously injure your beloved mare.
My suggestion is, don't turn those horses out together at all.
Find other more friendly companions for your mare.
Even if she is at the bottom of the pecking order, the one always picked on, you can still usually find turn out buddies that won't pick on her.
And if not, then turn her out alone until you do find such a buddy.
Remember, Justin Morgan, the founder of the Morgan horse breed, was kicked and eventually died from, a "routine" turn out spat very similar to that occurring to your mare.
This was a great tragedy, and would also be in your case, since the "fix" is so easy.
May 25, 2008 –
Why does my horse get so thin in late summer?
I feed just as much then.
How are the flies in your area?
Believe it or not, a horse suffering from persistent fly bites can lose a LOT of weight fairly quickly.
I've watched horses twitch or stomp continuously for days on end, and believe me, that kind of exertion takes its toll.
Plus, too much stomping can eventually hurt their legs.
Help your horse deal with the flies during fly season, and I bet you'll find your horse in much better condition through it all.
May 24, 2008 – How old should a horse be before it starts jumping?
Jumping, as people understand the term, is a fairly stressful action for a horse's joints and bones.
While a horse may jump logs in the wild occasionally, in no way do they jump objects of various heights and widths over and over in a short period of time, frequently with uneven or inconsistent footing, and while carrying weight.
So, err on the side of caution on this one.
A horse CAN jump while immature, but they likely should NOT do so.
Horses mature between ages five and six.
If it were my horse, I would not train for jumping much before then.
May 23, 2008 – I have 2 horses that both have sores in their ears.
They are getting shy about having them touched.
I have tried various creams and oils, but nothing seems to be working.
This is a difficult question for me because I'm not a veterinarian and this is a question for him/her, especially if both your horses have the same problem.
What does your vet say?
I would definitely go with your vet on this topic, and leave the ears alone without his/her prompting and assistance.
If your vet says you just must mess with the ears with ointment, enlist a "horsey" and trusted friend to do the honors so the horse doesn't associate you with "a pain in the ear".
May 22, 2008 – Do horses ever sleep lying down?
Absolutely, especially when young.
They dream, too, with little whinnies and movements of their cute little legs.
Makes you wonder what they dream about.
As they get older, sleeping lying down still happens, (Seabiscuit for example was famous for marathon naps), but for shorter and shorter periods.
Horses still need some sleep, however, and if not comfortable in their stalls or turnout situation, can really suffer from lack of sleep.
If your horse seems to be stumbling a lot or nodding off a lot, investigate his situation, as lack of sleep affects them poorly.
May 21, 2008 – How long do horses live?
Horses normally live anywhere from their mid to late twenties, with some super-horses lasting well into their thirties, for example, John Henry, who made it age 32.
I have heard tell of horses and ponies lasting until forty or so too, but I have never personally seen that, and for sure, that would not be usual.
The horse does lose the ability over time to gain nourishment from his food, and progressively becomes "poorer" and "poorer" until death is a kindness.
Like people, exercise and good food is the key to longevity.
So keeping yard art is not all that good for the horse.
Even lawn ornaments need a job.
May 20, 2008 – I board my horse.
It seems so expensive.
Wouldn't it be cheaper to have my own place to keep my horse?
You likely aren't figuring in all the costs of keeping a horse.
Not only food and shelter, but insurance, the cost of someone to feed and clean the stall, plus maintenance (horses are hard on the fencing and the structures), water, electricity, mowing, manure removal, and so forth, not to mention land costs.
Most boarding places do run neck and neck with actual costs, as the law of supply and demand controls.
I would look at more intangibles, such as, do you like the kind of horse experience you're having?
Is your horse being well kept?
Do you like the social aspects involved at the barn you're using now?
(Remember at your own barn, you have to generate all this).
So, if you're enjoying the current barn, then your boarding experience could be difficult and costly to replicate at your own barn.
If, on the other hand, you really want to be involved in the "nitty gritty" so to speak of the details of keeping your horse, and are good at figuring out all of the ways to improve your operation through constant effort, then having your own stable would be a good thing.
Remember to think it through carefully though, because there is no free lunch.
May 19, 2008 – Can horses learn to do more than one thing, like barrel racing and jumping, at the same time?
Sure, but you risk unnecessary confusion if you attempt to train more than one discipline simultaneously.
Horses learn best with incremental progress, so the best way to train is to teach them first one activity, and when they have that locked in solid, you can start the next.
The horse will figure out what is needed along the way, as long as the progress is slow, and as long as enough recovery time is given after workouts.
Do keep in mind though that once the horse does learn what it is you're asking, he may decide that it's just not for him.
Don't ask me how you'll know if and when that day comes — you just will.
May 18, 2008 – The best way to back up a horse is?
I am new to riding and don't think elbowing the horse in the neck is in any way the right way to get the horse to back up.
Neither is snapping the reins from the front.
What is the proper procedure?
Speaking only for myself, mind you, this is how I teach horses to back:
On the ground and with the bridle on, grasp the reins with a light firm hold while standing in front of the horse, and pull back lightly.
The horse will naturally take a step or two back.
Immediately let go of the reins and praise him.
Practice this until he associates the light firm hold with a few steps back.
Then get on him, and do the same thing.
The horse will learn to associate backing with the light firm hold, and ideally, will back up as long as you hold that slight pressure.
Yanks and blows don't work well at this, I have found.
May 17, 2008 – My horse is too spooky and has too much energy when I first get on him.
Is there anything I can do to calm him down?
The Horse Girl Says:
Have you tried lunging him for ten, fifteen minutes or so?
With the saddle on?
Stirrups flopping?
At a stiff trot and canter for a good part of the lunging?
If not, then try that first.
He should settle down once he realizes that it's work time, and you have taken the edge off his energy.
That said, if your horse is really trying to unload you, you do need to engage an expert to help figure out what to do, for safety's sake.
May 16, 2008 – My horse picks up the hind foot nearest me every time I get ready to mount.
What does this mean?
The Horse Girl Says:
Your horse may be getting ready to kick, so this is something you want to nip in the bud.
Get a crop and when he picks up the foot, wack him instantly on the offending part.
(Here, the muscle right below the point of the hip).
Not too hard, but not a tap either.
You may have to repeat this a few times until he gets the idea that, yes, you mean it that you don't want him picking up that foot when you're trying to mount.
Your horse will understand this non verbal communication just fine.
Then, when you get on, don't dawdle.
If you can't get on with a smooth move the first time, then think about using a mounting block for help.
Still nip the kick thing in the bud though.
Otherwise the day will come when you'e out on the trail, you've got to get on, and there IS no mounting block available.
May 15, 2008 – When I was out on the trail with my 7 year old gelding along with three other riders, we got separated from the group by about 20 yards as we were going down and up a ravine.
My horse panicked, so I started turning him in circles to try and calm him down.
He got more and more agitated and started crow-hopping, so not being an expert rider, I dismounted and the minute I hit the ground, he took off in a dead run back to the barn which was 3+ miles away.
Now I'm afraid he's going to think he can do that anytime he doesn't get his way.
What do I do???
The Horse Girl Says:
You're right!
You probably did signal to your horse that you could be "spooked" into a quick dismount.
That being said, if you were feeling uneasy in the security of your seat, you probably did save yourself serious injury by getting off.
So, on balance, you probably did the right thing.
HOWEVER, there should not be a repeat performance of this.
You were obviously out on the trail, and you're wise not to ride the trails alone.
I recommend riding in a ring with an instructor for a good chunk of time to get your confidence back up and to get a habit of obedience ingrained into your horse.
Also, I don't usually recommend this, but have you considered letting your horse be used as a lesson horse for a while?
Is your horse appropriate for lesson use?
A good dose of ring boredom will cure the spooks.
But, only do this if you trust the stable, the instructors, and the level of care provided.
And MAKE SURE to get good "waivers of liability" and "assumption of risk" documents signed for your protection, as well as an agreement with the stable so they would cover the costs for any medical treatment should your horse ever get injured during the lesson period (consult an equine lawyer for all of these).
Do ride in the future with a friend that has a bomb-proof horse.
That will help.
May 14, 2008 – What to do with a bucking horse?
The Horse Girl Says:
You didn't say what your skill level was in terms of riding.
Skill level matters here, so let me take it from the beginning, so to speak.
Horses buck for a variety of reasons, from having fun to intentionally trying to rid themselves of that large monkey on their back.
A technique to stop the bucking is not hard to apply for those who have experience: No matter what, in order to buck, horses have to put their head down between their knees.
Therefore, keeping the horse's head up will stop him from bucking.
This technique is easier to apply for skilled riders, obviously.
A neophyte monkey really has only one option, in the situation of the horse having fun at his expense, which is to lunge the horse with the saddle on to get the horse's ya ya's out before the ride; try a good fifteen minutes worth, and then work the horse a good deal before trying to canter.
If the horse is intentionally trying to dump the monkey, then get off immediately.
Horse trainers can help, but consider whether the ride is worth it.
This can't be said often enough: if the horse is too much, then think seriously about trading horses.
The issue is safety, which really is nonnegotiable.
A savvy and skilled monkey with a good seat probably already knows that keeping the horse's head up, moving forward, and issuing the reprimand immediately works well.
But, the safety comment applies to skilled monkeys too, though, so be careful all you rodeo riders out there.
May 13, 2008 – I am working with my 2 year old mini and she has come a long way from where she was last year.
She has a halter on now and we can clip on her lead line, but how do we get her to lead.
She takes a couple of steps with some coaxing, but nothing to say is an accomplishment.
The Horse Girl Says:
One suggestion: Put a lead in a figure eight around her rump, through the halter, so that when you pull, she feels it on her hind end.
Use sparingly, and praise her when she moves forward, so that when she moves forward, she has a loose rein.
When she stops, pull on the lead.
The trick is to have the correction applied when she does what you don't want, and praise and no correction when she does what you want.
Start small, that is, build each lesson off of the one before, each one ending on a high note of moving forward.
You say she does a couple of steps already, so you are on the way.
May 12, 2008 – I'm about to buy a new horse.
How important is conformation?
I hear people talking about it and I'm worried that I don't know enough about how to see good conformation.
The Horse Girl Says:
You didn't say what you were going to do with the horse.
Conformation is important for horses that are going to perform a job where their structure may affect their ability to get that job done.
Winning halter show classes or running in races are two jobs that come to mind.
A horse that doesn't "fit" the breed type sufficiently will not do well at halter classes, and poor conformation can affect a horse's ability to run fast.
Think about the job you want the horse to do and engage experts of different levels to help you depending on that job.
So, if you're looking for a backyard horse whose only job is to provide lots of companionship and fun trail rides for your children on occasion, then I would say the horse's disposition matters far more than conformation.
On the other hand, if you're looking to set the Arabian show world on fire, then detailed knowledge of the "jibbah" (slight bulge between the eyes) may be important, so you want to read up and talk to experts based on your need.
Good luck and remember to get a veterinarian to properly "vet" the horse before buying it to allay concerns about its overall health and ability to perform for your purpose.
May 10, 2008 – How important is it that a horse learn how to change leads?
My horse refuses to go in his left lead.
The Horse Girl Says:
Some horses are indeed very one sided, as you have already noticed.
Horses that only use one lead are not equally balanced in terms of strength, so having a horse that can use either lead at will, or on command, is better overall.
Work with a horse trainer to learn how you can better balance your horse through how you ride.
You can actually "exercise" your horse into better symmetry and strength, assuming that the cause of the imbalance is habit and not the result of a health issue.
May 9, 2008 – I've noticed that whenever my horse is near me, he puts his head on top of mine and pulls me into him almost like a hug.
Is this an aggressive type of body language?
The Horse Girl Says:
You're right to have the notion this could be an "invasion" of space by your horse on you.
The trouble is, it could also, indeed, be a sign of affection and you don't want to respond in the wrong manner.
Of course, the two are not mutually exclusive.
If it is an aggressive sign, then there will be other aggressive signs that go with it, such as disobedience of commands, shouldering you aside, etc. (horses are inventive in showing their views on status).
You can receive and reciprocate on signs of affection, but you can also demand that your space needs be honored.
And you SHOULD do that, because your horse can hurt you otherwise.
May 8, 2008 – What does "as is" mean when buying a horse?
The Horse Girl Says:
A seller who puts that phrase in a sale contract intends that a buyer who buys a horse "as is" takes the horse free of any of the warranties that might otherwise accompany the sale of a horse, such as the warranty of merchantability or the warranty of fitness for a particular purpose.
A horse is a "good" under the commercial laws of the United States, and so there are certain warranties that otherwise are included in every sale.
You can imagine why a seller might want to disclaim such warranties.
For any sale of a horse, it is a good idea to consult a lawyer on the meaning of the various terms, and to have a written contract that has terms that you understand before signing.
A little prevention on the front end can save you much time, effort, aggravation, and money.
May 7, 2008 – Should I get a horse that "cribs"? What is cribbing anyway?
The Horse Girl Says:
Cribbing is a learned behavior and habit that horses take up involving grabbing onto something with their front teeth and sucking in air withan audible grunt.
The behavior releases endorphins, and so once a horse has learned to do this, the habit is almost impossible to eradicate.
Horses can pick it up the habit from other horses and from spending lots of time being "stall-bound" (boredom being the cause), such as with show horses.
The habit is particularly offensive in barns where horses are stalled because horses will, in the course of grabbing hold, splinter and eat the wood just as if giant rats where gnawing on the wood surfaces.
There is also some evidence that cribbers suffer more from air colic and other digestive ailments.
(No surprise there.)
Owners can get a "cribbing collar" that fits around the horse's head and neck and prevents him from setting his jaw such that he can suck in the air.
These methods can stop most cribbers, but really determined cribbers require the collar to be made rather tight and you may find yourself uncomfortable adjusting it that severely.
However, cribbing itself does not affect a horse's ability to perform his horsy tasks, and so, getting a horse that cribs is a judgment call for you.
Some people refuse, on principle, to get cribbers.
I, myself, feel that stance is a bit too draconian, because the horse can still be useful and happy even if he does crib.
It helps if the horse is often out in pasture, will not be shut up or confined for long periods of time, and has plenty of grazing grass or hay to keep him occupied.
May 6, 2008 – I want to get into thoroughbred racing. How do I do that?
The Horse Girl Says:
The Thoroughbred Owners and Breeders Association (TOBA) actually has seminars devoted to bringing new owners into the fold.
They will help you master the lingo and the pitfalls of thoroughbred ownership.
I suggest going to the following Website to learn more about it:
http://www.toba.org
Congratulations!
One thing I am willing to bet on is that you will HAVE FUN!!!
May 5, 2008 – I have had two good weeks riding a new horse.
I had the vet give her an injection for worms.
This caused some soreness on her neck.
When I rode her the following two days she was a different horse. I thought she was going to throw me.
She seemed to really be angry. I was afraid. Lost my confidence.
I spent some time today just being with her,rubbing her, feeding her... but still was a bit timid. I have to get back on and make her behave with me on her back. (I had two of the men at the stable ride her for exercise and so I could watch her with them. She seemed ok.)
Any advice?
How can I tell when she is actually a danger to me and when I just need to press on and ride?
How can I safely develop confidence for both of us again?
The Horse Girl Says:
What happened to you is more common than you might think, and the answer is a bit complicated, so bear with.
First, let me try to assuage one fear.
You say that your horse seemed angry or mad at you after having the shots, but unless you are telling me that, right after the shots, the horse laid her ears flat to her head and then tried take a bite out of your arm, or immediately tried to whirl around and plant two hind hooves on your backside, I doubt that she was "mad" at you.
Horses tend to immediately and pointedly display feelings of anger and irritation, and such displays are hard to miss, and hard to avoid (getting bitten or kicked, that is.)
She may, however, have been sore after the shots, been unable to comply with your directions during the ride, and may have resented your efforts to push her into behavior that she was not physically up to performing.
Her efforts at resistance made you fearful.
And, for sure, she sensed when you were fearful right away.
This can't be said often enough: Horses absolutely know immediately through their SUPER EXTRA SENSORY PERCEPTION right away when their riders are fearful.
Knowing that you are fearful, says to her, that you are no longer the dominant member of the herd, and therefore, you are no longer in charge, and therefore, your directions no longer need to be followed.
You are not wrong to be cautious around a horse with this attitude because this situation obviously is very dangerous.
So how do you get out of this mess?
My suggestion is that you retain a horse trainer who can work with you to both build your confidence and teach you how to regain primary status, starting with ground work with your horse.
There are a number of small, non punitive ways, too many to list here, that you can show your horse on the ground that you are in charge.
As you gain confidence, you can start riding in controlled circumstances, such as in a round pen or small ring, under direction of the trainer.
The goal will be to build your confidence and to re-train the horse so you are "back on top" so to speak.
Horses are philosophical about such demotions because it happens all the time in a herd.
But it won't stop her from trying again from time to time to see if you still mean what you say, and so, you do need to know what to do and when to do it.
That being said, if you are still fearful, or if the horse's resistance continues in a prolonged manner, a good rider knows when to call it quits.
Some horses are not meant to be ridden by some riders, and if a horse really has your number, you need to accept that gracefully and move on to a different, better suited horse.
Polo player that I am, I had to do this last summer for a horse that had a world beater trick for showing his dominance:
While at a dead run, he bucked while dropping a shoulder, followed by reversal of direction (still at a dead run).
Folks say I hit the ground like a pile driver (of course, not that I could recall).
For a horse trainer in your area, one site to try is:
http://naturalhorsetraining.com
or use QueryHorse to find more resources on this.
Good luck and be safe.
May 3, 2008 – How important is it to fit my saddle to my horse?
I've used the same saddle for years now and have not had any problems no matter which horse I'm riding. From, Saddle Fit.
The Horse Girl Says:
Dear Saddle Fit:
It sounds as if two things are happening: first, you're not riding hard enough or long enough to cause a problem obvious to you on the horses you regularly ride; and second, your saddle started with enough basics to squeak by.
That being said, (don't you love lawyers) appropriate saddle fitting is VERY IMPORTANT to your horse's health, and saddles do deteriorate over time, depending on how well they're made and how they're stored and maintained.
DO NOT wait until your horse has sores over his withers or bruises on his back, or starts a behavioral death-spiral that could be detrimental to YOUR health to discover you have a problem — this is one area where a proactive approach is definitely worth it.
You can see if your saddle "fits" the primary horse you ride by consulting a saddle fitter, or you can take your horse's measurements and seek advice that way too.
I am not advocating that you buy a new saddle, just that you reassure yourself that your saddle, indeed, fits your horse.
You and your horse will sleep better at night, and ride better too.
May 2, 2008 – I'm thinking of leasing my horse to a friend of mine where they pay the board costs.
I don't really need any paperwork for that, do I?
The Horse Girl Says:
Many people do this, which is the so called "free lease" situation, informally and without repercussions.
However, a good percentage of these situations also end in misery, despair, hatred, horse theft, and legal intervention.
Which will you be?
Well unfortunately, you can't tell that before hand, so the best thing is to have a lease drawn up that spells out the obligations of the parties.
It must also fix an end-date to the lease.
This is especially important if the lease goes on for a long period of time so that the person taking care of the horse doesn't get the idea that you have abandoned the horse to them.
This is an area where there is no form lease available to cover your situation and there are many issues involved that a regular lawyer will not know about.
So in this case, finding an equine attorney in your area is recommended.
May 1, 2008 – I can't catch my horse in the pasture.
He runs away from me, and even though people have told me that if I just keep after him he will stop sometime, he doesn't, and I go around and around until I quit.
What can I do?
From, Disgusted.
The Horse Girl Says:
Dear Disgusted:
If you absolutely must catch him on any particular occasion, delay feeding and then go out there with grain in a bucket.
But obviously that only works with prior planning, and you need to have
