QueryHorse – Ask the "Horse Girl"

DISCLAIMER: (There had to be one: Kathleen IS a lawyer after all!) Information provided via the "Ask the Horse Girl" column is for entertainment purposes only and represents an opinion. It is not intended nor can it be relied upon for medical, nutritional, legal, or expert advice of any kind. Readers are warned they bear the burden of seeking out expert advice (i.e. not QueryHorse) for their specific questions, and by accessing the "Ask the Horse Girl" column, they hereby affirm their understanding of these conditions.

I venture to guess that he likes the taste of them. Have you dropped something "interesting" on them, such as some foodstuff while preparing a meal or some coffee while working down at the barn?

July 29, 2010 – Why is my horse losing hair in some places leaving bare spots?

There are a number of skin conditions that can cause this. You need to call your vet.

It depends on if you're at a halt and want the horse to walk, or if you're trotting or cantering and want the horse to slow to a walk.

If you're at a halt, squeeze the horse with your legs and lift the reins slightly. If you're at a trot, sit down gently, squeeze all over with your legs, and touch his mouth slightly with the bit by pulling back gently and then releasing. Do it again and a little harder if he ignores you.

At some point, if you escalate the aids, he'll stop, in which case you implement the first suggestion. Horses can figure this stuff out pretty quickly if you're consistent in your aids.

I've read quite a bit about this over the years and there are lots of opinions. It does seem to boil down to individual preference for the mare. Some take in orphans gladly while others do not. If grieving over the death of their own foal, this process can be assisted by getting the scent of the deceased foal on the orphan. But failing that, I would say to approach this gradually and slowly, and keep the mare's head tied up in the beginning stages.

I've also seen orphans forced on mares using hobbles and ties, and although that works in the short term, it's usually not a long term solution. At some point, the mare's opinion will possibly be expressed forcefully in a way that could injure the foal, so no matter what, you want to very carefully keep an eye on the proceedings.

July 23, 2010 – My horse has a hard time riding with other horses on the trail. What can I do to make her more comfortable on the trail and easier to control?

What does she do exactly? Does she bite and kick at them? If so, this means her attention is more on playtime and less on obeying you, her leader. Immediately reward goofing off with work. Circles, trotting forward and back, side passes, you name it. As soon as she pays attention to you, let her rest. This takes vigilance, but works well. Also, if there is an especially hated rival, keep that horse far away.

If the foregoing doesn't apply, does she get impatient and work up a lather trying to be first? If so, again, keep her mind off the other horses and on work. I favor an approach trotting ahead and then trotting back, and then trotting ahead again. Soon, she'll enjoy the basic walk and want to avoid the work she gets by not listening to your commands.

Also, if you give her enough exercise, the jiggles will stop. Horses that trail ride for a living never jig. It's just too much work and they have to work too hard already. It might be worth farming her out for a few weeks to a trail ride outfit. Give instructions that she's not to be used by anyone other than the guides. I bet she comes back a different and improved horse.

You mean, when you're on him? He likely doesn't like you or something you're doing to him, and is expressing his opinion. Examine what you're doing at the moment he tries to bite. Are you doing something he doesn't like, such as kicking him in the ribs? Are you wearing spurs and jabbing him? Does he have a sore or injury that your feet are irritating?

Also, check his back and spine for pain issues. A bad back is enough to make anyone bite.

July 21, 2010 – My horse wants to play with people in her pasture. Is this ok?

As much fun as it could be, I DO NOT recommend it unless you're VERY experienced with horses, in which case, you would not be asking this question. Here's why:

A horse's idea of horseplay will get a human killed. Horses are incredibly strong, large, fast, and dangerous, and don't have any way of knowing that you're not, and instead are small, weak, slow, and fragile. Nor would they care even if they did know. So, you're placing yourself in harm's way by playing with a horse. There are ways that some people will play with hoses, but again, I won't describe them because you couldn't implement the suggestions except by placing yourself at serious risk.

Get your horse a pasture toy and then watch from the safe side of the fence. Alternatively, take some lessons for some of the events available in some disciplines, such as cutting, polo, etc. These are events that many horses enjoy and they require a rider to guide and enjoy the activity with them.

Generally, it's much safer for you to play with a horse when you're mounted rather than playing from the ground with them.

I have no idea on this one — this is a stumper. Does your horse only have sweat glands on one side? This is a question for your veterinarian.

July 19, 2010 – My horse kicked me while I was cleaning her. What should I do?

First, does she hate being brushed, and does she tell you that with her body language and ears when you're brushing her? If so, then you're at risk of being kicked again unless you change her mind about grooming. Use soft brushes, give her treats, keep the flies off of her, do this in a cool place, and don't let it go on too long for each grooming session.

Start the grooming along the top of her neck which is where horses groom each other naturally. Don't let grooming always be a precursor to work, either. Sometimes, just go and take her out of the pasture and give her some positive attention; then, put her back. If her pasture life is too absorbing for her, try turning her out alone for a few weeks so that your grooming sessions are the only interaction she has all day with anyone. She'll soon be begging for attention.

If it's not the grooming, but instead was a kick at a fly, dog, or another horse, well then, keep flies, dogs, and hated rivals away from her when grooming.

Within a few weeks if you put your full attention on it, that is, worm her first. Then, provide good, free-choice hay followed by a high fat, high protein feed at regular intervals. Add grazing to that and the horse should fairly "pop" in about three weeks.

It could be that his teeth need looking after. He could have points on the teeth such that he can't grind them uniformly together, leading to grain dropping out of his mouth. Have him checked by your veterinarian or an equine dentist.

July 14, 2010 – Where can I find a skeleton costume for my draft horse (black with skeleton on it to drape over horse)?

I've not seen one before. I suppose you could paint a skeleton on a horse sheet and drape it. Don't use any sheeted material not expressly designed for horses just to assure you don't create a tripping hazard for your horse.

Actually, I'd prefer to paint a skeleton right on the horse in a child -safe, water-based paint, especially if I had a black horse. Then you could just rinse it off when you're done, there's no tripping hazard, and your horse won't be too warm from wearing a sheet.

July 13, 2010 – I have a 4 year old walker. When I bought him, he only knew western riding, but I have now begun training him with natural horsemanship and at first he was doing wonderful. Now that he has become more comfortable, he has decided to be the alpha and beats up on the biggest horse in the pasture. He bites and kicks the big horse and he began biting me while I was trying to mount him last week four times. I got up on him bare back, made one lap around the arena and he decided to stop and relieve himself with a grunt. Then he began to stretch way out front with his front legs and proceeded to try to lie down and roll with me on his back. I managed to jump off of him but in the process broke my leg. This is the fourth time that he has tried to lie down with me on his back. He doesn't do it to my husband just to me. He does everything perfect while my hubby rides him. What can I do with him?

I hate to say this, but this horse has your number. He's sensed that you're afraid of him and decided he can bully you. Your husband is not afraid of him and he knows that, too.

You should stay off of him — don't ride him. No amount of training is going to fix this unless you can remove that inner uncertainty in yourself and squash the beginning signs of rebellion, which you'd need to be a lot more expert to do. This falls into the category of "life is too short".

Don't feel bad about it either. Every horseman meets his match sooner or later. Several years ago, I had to send my thoroughbred horse, Murray, back to the dealer because he perfected the shoulder drop combined with a duck and run backwards stunt. After being thrown to the ground by him and suffering a concussion and severe ankle sprain, I saw the light and sent him on to his new owner, fully warned about the tendency. Murray is now a good horse loved by this new owner who has a way about him that Murray respects.

July 12, 2010 – I want to give one of my ponies to a friend. If I do, can I deduct it on my taxes?

Is your friend a charitable organization, such that giving this item constitutes a charitable donation? Your friend would know about that. Otherwise, you cannot get a deduction for a straight gift. If only we could.

It depends on when she does it and to whom. During feeding time at another horse, you should just butt right out of that argument. If she does it to you, or while you're riding, then absolutely. Remember that the correction has to be timed perfectly, that is immediately, so that she makes the connection. Also, right after the correction, ask her to do some work so she has to pay attention to you and she understands that work ensues when she goofs off. It's like dealing with teenagers.

This is a training issue, possibly combined with a health or bit issue. The horse is likely feeling the pinch of the bit and reacts poorly. In order to prevent this, you'll have to re-train him.

First, investigate the horse's bit and see if it pinches or otherwise hurts him when you pull on the reins. Dental issues may also be contributing to the problem if the horse's teeth cause him pain when the bit is activated in his mouth.

Assuming that all dental and bit issues are resolved, you'll then have to look at how you're stopping. If you rely totally on rein power to stop, then a horse may leap in protest, because a horse naturally stops from the back end first, and not from his head and neck. So, the best way to stop a horse occurs when the horse's back end and rump prepare for the stop first. When you do that, his front end will naturally come up, but not in a manner that is conducive to leaping. That is, his back end will come down, his head will come up, and his entire weight will be shifted backwards as he stops. The reining horse sliding to a stop is the ultimate expression of this natural action.

You can help the horse to adopt the correct posture for stopping by shifting your weight back and down, and giving him a bracing squeeze with your entire leg and seat as you ask him to stop. The pull on the reins is only a signal that this process should occur, it isn't the mechanism the horse uses to accomplish the stop. So, give the signal, and then concentrate on using legs and seat to accomplish the stop.

If the horse absolutely refuses to stop, you can practice this maneuver against an arena wall by asking for a turn and a stop at the same time. Use a leading rein for the turn, and turn him towards the arena wall — he'll have to stop. Again, don't hang on his mouth, just use the signal to turn and stop.

Gradually straighten out against the wall so that the signal turns into a stop, not a turn and stop. Practice this no more than 5 or six times at a stretch, and when he makes progress, stop, let him walk, and praise him. Then, go do something else or get off entirely.

With practice and praise, he'll learn very quickly how to stop and the leaping will be a thing of the past.

Take the shoe off immediately. This is a puncture wound by the nail into the sensitive parts of the hoof. Often, taking the nail out will cure the problem. But, keep an eye on the issue in case the area becomes infected. If that happens, call a veterinarian immediately!

July 6, 2010 – How can I cure my horse of crying for another horse whenever its owner takes it out to ride? My horse also cries when I take her out to ride? I can't win.

Your horse wants her paddock mate always nearby and is lonely and frightened when alone. It is annoying though, isn't it?

What's going on is that your horse has formed a deep attachment to another horse. The only way to prevent the incessant crying is to help her form another attachment with some other horse under new management or situation. I assume you know who that other horse is. Either remove your horse, or get that other horse to be removed. In any case, a change of scenery with a new barn or a new set of companions should do the trick. It also helps if you spend lots of time with your horse as her leader so she becomes comfortable with you and feels you'll protect her.

July 2, 2010 – My mare kicks my stallion whenever he tries to mount her. At this rate, I'm afraid that he'll become afraid to even try or even get too hurt to try in the future. He's bigger, so I thought he would win, but she's a mean cuss when a stallion tries to do it. Otherwise, she's really gentle.

Ah, sweet mystery of life, you've found it. Welcome to horse relations 101. The mare will always be in the prime position to kick the beyjaysus out of the stallion due to their architecture. Only when she is receptive to his advances due to her hormonal state of readiness, and not until that moment, will she submit willingly and not exercise her veto rights. He knows this, but male hope springs eternal. And, even if he did become discouraged, the mare has her ways; once she's in heat, her tricks will be able to surmount any resistance. I was reminded of this the other day, when my mare, Chloe, got her gelding companion all hot and bothered and totally frustrated with his, um, ah, disability.

If you've ever been to a thoroughbred stud farm, where, because the Jockey Club demands live cover and the stallion owners need to protect their investments, this mysterious moment has to be pinpointed with great accuracy, using a teaser stallion and enough restraining equipment, such as aprons, hobbles, ropes, and pads to equip a medium sized adult entertainment store, you would know whereof I speak.

As an amateur owner, if you're actively trying to breed the two, then I would just let them work it out and keep them pastured with one another in the springtime until you get a positive pregnancy test from the vet. If you don't have that luxury, then consult a thoroughbred farm stud groom in your area and your vet. The only amateurs that should be in the paddock during breeding are the horses. Anyone else is likely to get hurt.

July 1, 2010 – My horse will easily get scared and then try to jump out of her pen? What can I do?

Keep another horse with her so that she's not so scared. Horses are always afraid when alone. A stone-calm, older gelding should do the trick. She won't want to leave him, and so, won't try to leave the pen.

June 30, 2010 – My horse fell down while I was riding him. He seems ok, but I'm worried that it happened and I don't know what to do.

Yikes! I would have to know a whole lot more about the situation before I could talk about it. For example:

As you might imagine, horses don't like to fall down. But they're not above clutziness or other pratfalls by accident. Only if a horse has a medical issue that pre-disposes them to falling down should you be worried. For example, if he's a Quarter Horse of the Impressive line and has a seizure due to HYPP, he will fall down, you should be worried, and you should not ride him again. But fortunately, that is a rare condition.

You should consult your vet if you think this is medically related and not just due to a one off misstep.

June 29, 2010 – My horse won't let anybody mount him. He starts dancing around once he realizes someone is going to climb up and then gets angry and will even rear. What should I do?

First, have your vet check your horse to assure there is no medical problem with his back or skeletal structure. If he's fine, you need to do some training. This will take patience from you, but it's worth it. Also, remember that you always have to get on smoothly, quickly, and sit down gently. With those caveats, let me tell you a method of retraining this behavior:

Gather the reins and stand at his shoulder. Tell him to stand. If he moves forward, channel that movement into a circle and push on his hip or barrel so that his hind feet actually move around his front feet in a circle. Keep this up until he gets tired of this tiring movement and stands still when you let up the pressure. When he stands, even for a moment, pat him and tell him what a good boy he is. Then go off and do something else with him for a moment (e.g. walk him in a circle, let him eat some grass, whatever.) You can even give him a treat for standing still like that if you do it immediately after he stands. Keep that up until you can get a good stand out of him while you're in mounting position.

Then, add a foot to the stirrup action, but don't get on. Just demand he stand while you stand there with your foot in the air, toe in the stirrup. Once you have a good stand with foot in stirrup, then get on smoothly. If he tries to move forward, demand the halt. If he continues to move, circle him in place until he stands. Reward him for the stand, then get off. Go do something else for a little while, then try it again.

Here's the bottom line: always reward the stand with kind words, pats, treats, and a fun activity afterwards – always meet his impatience with work.

June 28, 2010 – Is there any way to control the speed of my horse from the seat?

Sure. If you sit back and down using your seat, the horse will be slowed as he tries to move forward. Think of someone sitting on your shoulders who does that; you would have to readjust your weight backwards to keep from falling over. It's the same for a horse. Now, it is true that a horse is much bigger and stronger, and therefore more likely able to proceed forward anyway. But if you reinforce the seat aids with hand and leg aids, it's likely that he'll come to a stop.

Butazolidene is a pain killer. I don't know what you mean when you say: "the danger signs of bute". I do know that bute is very harsh on a horse's stomach and can cause stomach upset. I also know that some horses are allergic to bute. I once knew of a pony to whom the barn owner gave paste bute. The result was a tongue that was ulcerated so badly that part of it had to be amputated. But other than that, bute is very helpful for some leg injuries and other pain related situations, though not good for colic (banamine is better there).

If a horse is feeling stomach issues from bute, he'll usually go off his feed. Also, some horses hate the taste of the powdered bute and won't eat feed that has bute in it.

All in all, you need to consult your vet on this if you think you're having a problem.

June 24, 2010 – My horse doesn't like the trailer and always backs out too fast when I untie him. Recently, I left the bar up and untied him first. As soon as I did, he backed out quickly and went right under the bar before I had removed it and bruised his back and whithers. I'm so frustrated about trailering her. What can I do?

As you've already discovered, this is a very dangerous situation. I think you need to send him to a horse trainer and see if the problem can be corrected. I get a little spoiled because polo horses nearly always trailer well due to the fact they travel in herds in big stock trailers that are fairly comfortable from a horse point of view. They're roomy, airy, filled with buddies, and usually fun happens when they get off, such as playing a game or getting fed. So as a result, most polo horses will rush the door trying to get in first — both on and off, not a problem. And even if they have a problem when they start out, a few weeks of watching their buddies in action convinces them that trailering is FUN and what all the "in" horses do.

Contrast that with what your horse finds in your trailer. You're likely using a two horse model which is dark and narrow with no other horse there. If a wolf came up, he' be lunch and he knows it. Why wouldn't he try to get off as soon as possible? It's the smart thing for a horse to do.

Therefore, as far as he's concerned, what you're asking him to do is to ignore his instincts and for no good reason. Until you can allay his fears (which have now been substantiated by the injury). you're going to have an uphill battle. It's a smart horse you're dealing with, too. I can tell because he didn't try to get out while tied. He knew that would be useless and figured on making his escape as soon as he possibly could, which he did. So, seek out a trainer for this because help is available.

June 23, 2010 – When I go to mount my horse, he jumps around and I get scared I'll fall and get walked on. My horse hasn't been ridden in three years. Could that contribute to this problem?

Ah yes. He needs reminding what riding is. Also, his back will be hurting him from your weight. Send him to a trainer for a refresher course in human riding for a few weeks. You will both be happier.

June 22, 2010 – My horse throws her head a lot. I thought that I should try a different bit but I tried a wide variety with the same outcome. I even tried a halter but she still threw her head. How do I stop this?

Check to see WHEN she throws her head. On the off chance that it started with a dental issue, go ahead and get her teeth seen by an equine dentist. Sometimes the teeth's wear pattern will cause the horse's cheeks to become abraded and sore. If a bit is used that rubs that area, the horse will throw its head in reaction.

This problem could also be related to a back issue. For that, call a vet or chiropractor to determine whether your horse throws her head in relation to a sore back problem.

Otherwise, it'll be a training issue. I have a horse that throws her head when nervous. I'm working on getting her calmed down, and when she throws it a lot, I keep her busy and working. When she stops throwing her head, I let her walk on a loose rein and tell her how wonderful she is.

She's being protective of her feed and sees no reason not to tell you that just as she would tell any horse lurking in the vicinity anxious to scoop a few mouthfuls (she doesn't know you don't like to eat horse feed). Remember that the horse world is hierarchical in nature, and right now, she's telling you that she outranks you in the feed department. You could push the issue and remind her, that in fact, YOU are the boss. But for safety's sake, I urge you to enforce that rule in a context other than feed. She could strike out instinctively and then you'd be hurt for no good reason. In your shoes, I would not let her run you off (don't reinforce the situation), but don't engage her either. If in doubt how to proceed, contact a horse trainer.

Is he kicking at YOU? When? When you girth him? When you groom him? When you go into his stall? When you feed him (that's an unlovely habit!)? First, figure out the conditions under which the kick occurs.

Girthing
If it's related to girthing, then you can and should be careful to girth slowly, a few holes at a time. While the horse is NOT haltered and tied, but walking forward, stop and girth a hole, then move again, stop and girth a hole and so forth. He'll be so busy and the girth will tighten so gradually that a kick is unlikely to occur under these conditions.

Grooming
When you groom, well, change how you groom or how hard you groom so as to stop the cause of discomfort. Horses usually like to be groomed, so if yours doesn't, it's likely that you're causing him pain. If in doubt as to what to do, get someone with more experience to witness your grooming and help you determine the cause and the resolution so you don't hurt your horse. If he doesn't trust you, then you'll need to learn how to gain and maintain his trust.

Entering His Stall
Entering a stall is a tough one. Personally, I wouldn't own a horse that kicks when you get near enough and without provocation. Under such circumstances, finding a buyer for a kicking horse may be difficult as well, and you must be sure to give a full disclosure of the problem or you could face legal liability in future.

For any of the above, I DO NOT RECOMMEND hobbling, which you may receive as well-meaning advice from some. The horse could injure himself fighting the hobbles and you could also get injured.

June 17, 2010 – My horse keeps tilting his head to the side when we trot. Is this a problem? How do I fix it?

It is a problem if it interferes with what you're doing. In order, the causes could be:

June 16, 2010 – How can I calm an angry or frightened horse when they're in danger?

Most of the time, if you speak calmly and soothingly to the horse, that will calm him. If the horse is truly in danger, then calming the horse won't do much good. A horse in danger should be afraid, and so should you be. So the both of you should get away from whatever it is. Calmly. And under your direction.

What is this, a medical challenge? Don't brains liquefy beyond a certain point, both animal and human?

I, myself, won't ride if it's too beastly hot. It hurts me and it hurts the horse. I would say that you should do the same. If it feels hot for you, it's also hot for your horse. And don't forget that he's carrying a lot more weight, plus yours.

Why is he propping? Propping, I take you to mean, involves a horse that stops up short with stiff front legs? Most of the time, this is a gesture of protest and also of domination, as in, "I sure as heck am not going to work much longer". Often, the horse's attitude will be conveyed by the head and ear posture and the expression on his face. Sometimes, it's fear related and you should be able to tell that also. In that case, the horse will snort, head up with eyes fixed and bugging out at the object of fear.

If the cause is the first, then get yourself to a horse trainer immediately for an attitude readjustment. Both you and he need training on how to get over this unpleasant habit.

If the cause is fear, then occupy his mind with directions aimed to take him somewhere not close to, but not running away from, the feared object. Ask him to bend, change directions, and generally pay attention to you rather than that thing, whatever it is. After a few moments. he'll realize that the thing is not attacking him and that he has to return to his job, which is carrying you around at your direction. Thus, you establish trust, and also confidence in you as the leader.

June 11, 2010 – How can I a calm an angry or frightened horse when they're in danger?

Most of the time, if you speak calmly and soothingly to the horse, that will calm him. If the horse is truly in danger, then calming the horse won't do much good. A horse that's in danger should be afraid. And so should you be, so the both of you should get away from whatever it is. Calmly. And under your direction.

Likely he's both itchy and affectionate. Otherwise, he's telling you to get out of his way. Careful observation of WHEN he does this should give you the reason.

A young horse's knee cartilage closes between two and two and one half years old. Before that time, the bone and cartilage are soft and too much strain and stress on the joints can damage them. Therefore, though I would say that gentle exercise with very light weight is fine, regular riding by an adult before then IS potentially harmful to the horse.

So, you may say, how come race horses train as yearlings? Good question. In fact, many criticize the US market for training race horses at too early an age. While some studies purport to show that the training toughens the joints etc., many young horses wash out as a result of injury related causes. So, while any particular individual may not be hurt, overall, the rate of injury seems to be high.

More than that though, early riding can injure the horse's back vertebra, which also have cartilage and can be injured from too early weight bearing. The back vertebra will not close until after the knee vertebra, and so adults with adult weights on very young horses can in fact cause injury. Overall the risk seems not to be worth it when you consider how long a horse lives.

Let your horse stay in the pasture until his knees and vertebra close properly would be my vote.

June 8, 2010 – How long will it take to notice a difference in my horse after worming?

It should be apparent within two to three weeks. Your horse will gain weight and his coat will look glossier.

Whew! That's a complicated question because you didn't mention what kind of horse business you're asking about. It all depends on the business or combinations of businesses you intend to enter.

Of course, you'll need general liability insurance no matter what the business. If you board horses, then you'll also need Farm Insurance, which covers the premises of the farm, and Care, Custody and Control Insurance, which covers the horses from injuries while on your premises rather than people, which the farm insurance covers. You'll also need workman's comp insurance for your employees, even the ones that provide services via barter, such as kids doing the stalls.

If you're providing riding instruction and/or training horses, you'll also need Instructor and Trainer Coverage. If you're breeding, add on Stallion Fertility Insurance, and Mare and Foal coverage. For the horses you own, you may want to add Horse Health Insurance to cover their major medical costs due to illness or injury, and Mortality Insurance in case they die prematurely — this is important for your horses that provide income to your business and is no different than insuring your computer and office equipment. If you're transporting horses, you'll need truck and trailer insurance that also covers those who might be behind the wheel as well as the horses belonging to the third parties who ship with you.

Speaking as a fully insured individual, let me say that your best resource in all this is a trained independent equine insurance agent. He/she will likely give you discounts if you're purchasing multiple kinds of insurance through the same firm. And with so much going on, don't forget to find a good equine attorney who will protect you through preparation of proper waivers and contracts necessary for your business.

Horses are risky enough — don't compound the risk by being improperly insured, underinsured, or worst of all: uninsured.

June 4, 2010 – I'm wondering what your experience has been with horse chiropractors with regard to helping your horses with issues of back pain, shoulder or hip pain? Have you found them to be helpful, and if so, how long do you find the horse stays comfortable after an adjustment before needing another one? Thank you.

I have seen performance horses that will not keep in performance condition without regular chiropractic care, and so, it does serve some purpose and is helpful. Every horse is different, but the horse I am thinking of needed monthly adjustments to stay sound. Of course, this horse was a Grand Prix dressage horse worth over $250,000, so the chiro was worth every penny to that owner!

Essentially, she's not enjoying the encounter and is telling you so. Why is that? Either you're brushing her too hard, or she learned in past encounters that this is not fun. You'll have to change her mind on this.

Whenever you brush her, use a soft brush, watch her body language, and concentrate on those spots that she likes. Most horses enjoy being brushed, so you'll have to take it slow and make it comfy for her. Don't mess with her too much to begin with.

Also, the fly season, which is almost upon us, tends to be a big convincer. Once a horse learns that grooming sessions combat fly bites and scratch those itches, they practically pick the brush up for you. Keep at it, you do need to be able to groom your horse, and if you stick with it, you should be able to make progress on this front.

I don't know. Maybe he sees you get a kick out of it and likes to watch the reaction. "Clever Hans", an Orlov Trotter gelding in 1891, won renown as a horse that was touted as being able to count and do arithmetic. He actually couldn't count, but watched the faces of his owner, and when he got to the answer, he could read body language and other subtle cues — horses are very observant!

Well, he likely has been soured on ring work because of boring repetition. The thing to do is not avoid ring work entirely, but just do it in the context of working on a particular thing or playing at something new. Horses are very quick to understand if what they're doing has anything in it for them or not, and walking around and around in a circle could bore the pants off of anyone. So, liven it up. Do something different when you go into the ring. Try new things. After a while, he'll realize that you're not just doing ring work to torture him.

Have you ever run barrels? Does your horse jump? Have you ever worked a reining pattern? Make it about a point and a joint project, and he'll revise his attitude. And don't do that thing every time — still go on trails. Just make it all very unpredictable, and when he cooperates in the ring, get off and pat him, groom him, and put him back into turn out with his friends. Reward positive attitude and effort, and meet poor attitude with more work.