August 27, 2008 – SUGGESTIONS ON NEW STIRRUPS?
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm looking to buy some new stirrups; any suggestions?
It really depends on what you're doing.
Stirrups rarely break or wear out, so there's no need to periodically get a new set.
But if you want a new set for a specific reason, that's fine.
I replaced mine last year for a set of endurance stirrups.
The new stirrups have made my riding more comfortable by reducing ankle and knee pain I used to experience.
I wrote an article on the switch several months ago for QueryHorse that you can read entitled A More Comfortable Stirrup.
The other point I'd like to make is that English stirrups are generally narrower than western or endurance stirrups.
I cannot wear my usual Ariat riding shoes when on an English saddle.
Instead, I wear standard paddock boots and they fit the English irons just fine.
So, you may want to keep this in mind when selecting new riding boots or replacing stirrups.
August 26, 2008 – CAN I TOW A HORSE TRAILER WITH MY JEEP?
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I want to tow a small two-horse trailer with my jeep.
Some friends are telling me it's not a good tow vehicle.
Are they right or am I ok?
You don't say what Jeep you have, so I don't know if it's small like a CJ-7 or something bigger like a Grand Cherokee — that makes a big difference!
The CJ series is limited to something like 2,000 pounds maximum combined trailer and payload weight while Grand Cherokees and some other models can tow 5,000 - 6,500 or so pounds depending on model and engine size.
Generally, small vehicles are not good for horse trailering.
That's because their small weight could easily be "towed" by the trailer rather than the other way around — trust me, you don't want to find yourself in that situation as the "towee".
Plus short wheelbase vehicles are not stable for anything but the smallest loads.
Think about the fact that the average horse weighs around 1,000 pounds and even a light, single-horse trailer will often weigh at least 1,500 - 1,800 pounds empty.
Empty two-horse trailers are usually in the 2,500 - 3,200 pound range or more.
Add one or two horses, tack, hay, water, and such, and you're way, way over the limit with a small vehicle.
I am not in a position to tell you what you can safely or legally tow with your vehicle — you need to get that information for your explicit vehicle and trailer.
Your operator's manual will list the maximum weight you can tow, your Jeep's maximum combined vehicle/trailer weight, whether or not you can use a weight-distribution hitch, and much more.
If you can't find your manual, try searching the Internet or visit a Jeep dealer to get that information.
This is not the kind of thing with which you want to take any chances.
Your horse's lives, those of you and your passengers, and those riding in other vehicles sharing the road with you are all at stake.
August 25, 2008 – IS IT EASIER TO SEE ANIMALS ON FOOT OR HORSEBACK?
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My husband and I have a disagreement over whether or not it's easier to see wildlife on foot or on horseback.
He says horses make too much noise and are so big that they're easily seen while a person presents a smaller visual profile and can sneak up quietly.
But I've seen more wild animals on horseback than I ever did when hiking.
Any comments?
Yes!
But I should start by saying that I'm not an authority on this topic — a zoologist would likely know more.
But I am happy to share my own experiences and they agree with you.
Without getting into my age (shudders), I have mostly lived in rural areas and have done a lot of hiking over the years, especially for my nature and landscape photography.
I've seen a lot of wildlife over that time, but see more when on horseback; sometimes, much more.
First, my horse helps alert me to wildlife that I would never have seen, heard, or smelled, but he does.
His senses far outdo mine, and likely any other human being.
In fact, horses are being used more and more for search and rescue because they can see from a higher vantage point than a dog and actually have more olfactory cells in their noses than even a bloodhound.
Second, my horse and I have gotten a lot closer to many animals than I ever have been able to get on foot.
I believe it's because the animal sees four hooves on the ground instead of two human feet and sees my horse and me together as some weird, two-headed, but non-threatening animal.
Whatever the reason, animals don't run as soon and will sometimes approach us to satisfy their curiosity, even deer have done this.
Unfortunately, I never have either of my good cameras while on horseback for fear of dropping and breakage, so I can never take advantage of the opportunity; though I'm currently experimenting with wither bags to see if I can adequately protect and quickly access a good camera.
The foregoing doesn't definitively answer your question, but I hope it helps!
August 22, 2008 – CELL PHONE HOLDER
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My cell phone has slipped out of my pocket to the ground several times while riding.
Fortunately, either I or another rider noticed it.
But one of these days I could lose it for real.
I've heard of cell phone pouches that snap to a ring on the saddle.
Can you suggest any?
Personally, I don't feel that's a good solution.
I much prefer to see you keep your phone on your person.
That way, if your horse ever spooks and surprises you, and you fall off, you can still call ahead if you have an idea of where your horse is likely to run (your barn or trailer?) so someone can catch him.
You'll also be able to call a friend to come pick you up if you're far from your barn or trail head.
More importantly, if you fall and get seriously hurt, you don't want to have your phone up on your horse even if he stays nearby.
And if he runs, you'd be in even more trouble.
Keeping your phone with you is the only way to make sure you have your phone when you need it.
At almost all phone stores and at some tack shops, you can get a cell phone holder through which you can loop your belt.
It will protect your phone as well as keeping it on your body and making sure it doesn't slip away like it currently does from your pocket.
In colder weather, some coats also have a cell phone pocket on the inside or outside that has a velcro or zippered cover to keep it captive.
My rides are almost always at least 90 minutes, most are 2 - 5 hours.
So, I also carry a two-way radio in case my phone has no signal or is damaged in a fall.
The radio is part of my GPS — it's on my belt on my other side so it, too, stays with me should I ever get separated from my horse.
You can get a set of FRS (Family Radio Service) walkie-talkies for as little as $15.00 for two.
Most are not much bigger than a cell phone and also come with a belt holder.
But unlike a cell phone, they don't need to communicate with a cell tower.
Instead, they can communicate directly with any person having another one switched to your channel or scanning channels.
These are carried by hunters, some police and park rangers, hikers, and more.
And some people monitor their frequencies at home on scanners.
You're not guaranteed that someone will have one and be within a few miles, but it does increase your odds of getting help in addition to your cell phone.
A great idea is to get fellow riders at your barn to also carry one and agree on a channel to use when any of you are riding, but not together.
August 21, 2008 – THE SADDLEBAG SEARCH
Well, after the lengthy saddle search saga, you likely wouldn't have expected it from anyone else as much as me to now embark on another similar endeavor, namely, a search for "the perfect saddlebag".
Finding a product that really works well for riding has sometimes proven elusive for me.
For example, I don't just want a saddlebag that ties to my saddle; for starters, I want one that can be properly secured so it doesn't bounce against my horse's ribs or loins.
Then, there are the additional desires, such as:
- Ample space
- A quick release, but secure buckle
- The ability to remove and carry the saddlebags with ease
- Insulation so a lemonade or soda stays cold on a hot day
- Enough of that insulation or padding so a camera or other sensitive electronic item will be adequately protected from damage during riding.
As you can see, and as is typical for the "How-to Horse Guy", I don't want much.
So my search is underway and I'll report progress as it occurs.
I think that the hardest goal to achieve will be the "non-bouncing" aspect.
There are precious few places to secure the lower part of saddlebags to keep them down.
The saddle tree doesn't extend down the sides of the horse and the only truly non-flapping part is the cinch, but it's too far forward.
And a rear-cinch strap must be kept slightly loose and touches a more sensitive part — I don't think most horses would like a slight tug on their tummy at every bounce of a trot or canter.
I tried last year to enlist the help of a saddle manufacturer in working this out and letting them market the final product, but they expressed disinterest in working with outsiders on products.
If any readers have suggestions, PLEASE SHARE THEM!
I have no pride in solving this myself and just want to find a solution to this goal as quickly and easily as possible.
Please provide any solutions, ideas, and feedback through the Horse Guy Comment Submission Form and I'll also post them.
Thanks!
August 20, 2008 – ESTIMATING MILEAGE ON TRAIL MAPS
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I ride the trails in state and national forests.
Even though there's a "scale of miles" on most maps, I have a hard time trying to determine distance and the time to travel trails that curve all over the place.
Is there any easy way to measure distances on a map?
Yes!
I use a map gauge.
It's a small, wheeled gauge that you roll on a map trail.
You can also use it on an ordinary road map.
The gauge has multiple scales on both sides so you can find one that matches the scale of your map.
See below:
Brunton Map Measurer
The one I use cost me less than $20.
You can find it at most places that sell maps, or you can order it online.
Here it is from a store on Amazon.com.
Have fun!
August 19, 2008 – SAFETY CHAINS — TOO CROSS OR NOT TO CROSS — THAT IS THE QUESTION
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I have a 2-horse bumper-pull trailer.
I have had different people tell me different things regarding the safety chains.
Do you cross them when hooking up or not?
Yes, cross the chains.
And make sure you do it UNDER the coupler.
Their purpose is to keep the trailer with the tow vehicle if the coupler should fail for some reason.
And in the rare case that the coupler should fail (or was not properly tightened by the operator), the chains (if crossed) will also prevent the tongue from dropping down and hitting the ground.
If that were to happen, the tongue could dig in and put severe stresses on the tow vehicle and trailer, possibly breaking the chains or causing an accident for both.
When crossed, the chains will support the trailer tongue above the ground and keep the trailer with the tow vehicle while you bring it all to a safe stop.
One more thing, make sure the length of the safety chains are long enough to allow you to make a sharp turn in either direction while also being short enough to keep the tongue above the ground.
August 15, 2008 – LEANING WHEN GOING UP OR DOWNHILL
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How far should I lean when riding up or down hills?
This is a good question because I often see riders leaning much too little or too far backwards when going downhill or vice versa.
Leaning too far either way actually makes it harder for your horse.
To lean properly, you need to understand the physics of movement (DON'T WORRY! There will be NO MATH here.)
As soon as we deviate from level ground, more of the horse's weight, plus our own, shifts to whichever legs are on the downhill side.
That's his rear legs if going uphill or to his front legs if going downhill.
Downhill is hardest for a horse because of they way they're built.
Even on level ground, the front legs are more heavily loaded for several reasons.
Looking at just the mass of the horse between the front and rear legs (mid-mass), most of the weight is in front because the chest is larger than the abdomen.
In addition, the weight of their large heads and necks is cantilevered out in front of the front legs, so the overall weight on those legs is much larger than the weight on the rear legs.
When going downhill, even more weight is placed there because more of the mid-mass weight shifts to the front legs.
When going up or down a hill, keep your body vertical and don't move around or squirm — this will keep you more stable in the saddle and make it the least burdensome way for the horse to move himself and you up or down that hill.
To a fellow rider, being vertical when going downhill will look as if you're leaning back in relation to the horse, or look as if you're leaning forward when going uphill.
If you're not sure whether or not you're vertical, look at any surrounding trees — most will grow relatively vertical, even on a hill, and align your torso with them.
When you lean too far, it puts more strain on the horse's legs, and if extreme enough with a heavy rider and load, can unbalance your horse and even cause a slip and/or fall.
Horse's with joint illnesses, such as Lyme disease, are even more affected — be kind.
August 12, 2008 – THE MOUNTING BLOCK — DO I HAVE TO USE IT?
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I dislike using a mounting block, but the owner of the barn where I board insists I use it when riding any of her horses.
Is this really necessary?
It's not necessary, but it is a very good idea.
There's no doubt that mounting directly from the ground using the stirrup puts a strong twisting force on your horse's spine.
And there is now growing consensus among equine medical practitioners that the aforementioned twisting force can do damage to the skeletal system of some horses.
Using a mounting block or any other method that gets you high enough to just swing your leg over the saddle without putting all your weight (plus a strong jerk to lift yourself off the ground) will avoid putting all that stress on your horse's spine.
The amount of strain on your horse's spine is dependent upon several factors:
- The size your horse – a small horse is affected because he has a small spine and your weight is a larger percentage of his than would be the case with a larger horse;
- The height of your horse – while taller horses are generally larger, there's potential for significant spinal stress because the rider jerks harder to get higher;
- The weight of the rider – heavier riders more severely strain a horse's spine;
- The height of the rider – a shorter person is usually a lighter person; but for short, heavy riders, they may be just as heavy as a taller rider, plus exacerbate the situation further by having to work harder getting up and can put strong, twisting, jerking forces on the spine in the process — often, more than one before they finally get up.
Also, don't ignore equine joint illnesses and infections, such as degenerative joint disease (DJD) or Lyme Disease.
If your horse has such a problem, using the mounting block is better for him; it won't unnecessarily stress those joints and cause pain.
There's another advantage to using some mounting aid — it's easier on the rider.
You don't have to hyper-stretch your leg and do that jump/jerk to pull yourself up.
Of course, when out on the trail, you'll have fewer options getting back on if you have to dismount for some reason.
But even there, you can often mount from a rock, hillside, stump, or large fallen tree or log.
That doesn't mean you'll never have to mount directly using a stirrup, but it does mean you can greatly reduce the number of times you put that strong twisting force on your horse's back.
August 8, 2008 – FINDING THE "RIGHT" BARN
Posted as separate article. See: Finding the "RIGHT" Barn article.
August 6, 2008 – FINDING STATE FOREST MAPS
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I occasionally get lost in the state forest where I ride.
Where can I get maps?
Getting lost is no fun if you're truly lost.
Fortunately, you've got several options.
First, your horse is a "living map".
You may be lost, but it's doubtful he/she is.
One option is just to let him return to the barn (or the trailhead if you trailered in).
He'll get especially motivated as dinner time arrives and hunger sets in (well, they're always hungry, let's say "hungrier").
You mentioned wanting a map for your state forest; almost every state has maps that are available for a small fee.
If your forest is large enough, there's likely an office in the forest and it will have maps.
And whether there's an office or not, many states put maps online that you can download and print for free.
Also, the USGS creates topographical (topo) maps that can be purchased at many hardware, book, and outdoor sport stores as well as from USGS Topographic Maps Website online.
These maps will have lots of detail that will include brooks, railroad tracks, dirt roads, elevation, and more.
They will also provide high resolution useful to riders and hikers.
Finally, you can also purchase a GPS.
An inexpensive one will cost between $100 - $200 plus the price for the maps (usually $50 - 70).
As with the USGS maps just discussed, you can get topographical maps for your GPS.
You can learn more about GPS purchase suggestions in prior posts below for the dates of June 2nd and 6th, 2008.
July 30, 2008 – PART 8 – SADDLE SEARCH
Reposted as separate article. See: Saddle Search Series article.
July 29, 2008 – HORSE KEEPS RUBBING BRIDLE OFF
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse's single-ear bridle keeps coming off when she rubs her head against another object, like her leg, a post, a tree, etc.
How can I stop this?
This kind of problem is not uncommon when using a simple headstall/bridle that has just one set of straps coming from the bit up and over the head.
You can greatly reduce the chances of your horse "shedding" her bridle by using a more sophisticated headstall that includes a brow band, nose band, and throat-lash.
These additional pieces of leather better secure the headstall to your horse's head and any amount of rubbing will likely not remove it.
Of course, make sure any bridle is not too tight for your horse.
Especially make sure that you can fit at least four fingers of your hand between the throat-lash and your horse's throat.
The throat-lash must NEVER interfere with your horse's breathing — its only purpose is to provide extra security so your horse can't rub her bridle off.
Similarly, don't make the noseband too tight.
It should be two fingers below the horse's cheekbone and you should also be able to place two fingers between it and your horse's face to assure it's not too tight.
Another alternative is a halter/bridle.
It has all the security of a halter plus the ability to affix a bit.
And on the trail, you can pull the bit and let your horse graze while taking a break without having to carry a separate halter or collar.
July 28, 2008 – BREAKAWAY BRAKE
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What is a breakaway brake?
A breakaway brake is used on trailers and mandated by law in some states.
Fortunately, it comes on most new trailers whether mandated or not.
It works like this.
There is a battery box on the trailer close to the hitch coupler.
A cable hooked to the tow vehicle connects to a pin that slides into a switch on the battery box.
If the trailer were to separate from your truck, the pin would pull out of the switch causing the switch to turn on and activate the trailer's breaks.
The brakes are electric and powered by the battery box.
It's a safety feature that is designed to stop the trailer from rolling freely after separation from the tow vehicle.
Of course, it is hoped that the breakaway brake will never need to activate and the trailer's safety chains are a second line of defense designed to prevent separation if the hitch itself should fail.
The breakaway brake is a third line of defense, though at that point, I would fear for the safety of the horses and other drivers — the trailer is still freely moving by itself and out of control.
The breakaway brake is designed to make the freely moving trailer stop as quickly as possible.
July 24, 2008 – SADDLE TECH
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What is a knee poley?
A knee poley, knee pad, or just a "poley", is a pad on an Australian saddle that keeps the rider in his seat when the horse stumbles while running, shies quickly, or does a 180 degree " turn on a dime"..
It sticks up from the saddle above the thigh so it can stop the rider from going up and over if the horse should stop fast.
The photo below shows a poley on the off (right) side of the saddle.
A Knee Poley on an Australian Saddle
It came to major attention of the horse world in the 80s in the film "The Man From Snowy River" when the star of the movie galloped and slid down a steep hill on horseback.
I have them on my own saddle and really feel they make trail riding safer if a horse should make a quick unpredictable move when spooked.
Of course, that never really happens; right?
July 23, 2008 – HORSES & THUNDERSTORMS
Reposted as separate article. See: Horses & Thunderstorms article.
July 17, 2008 –ROMANCE & HORSE OWNERSHIP INJURY RISKS
Reposted as separate article. See: Romance & Horse Ownership Injury Risks article.
July 16, 2008 – FLY DEFENSES
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Should I use a fly spray with "natural" ingredients over a chemical spray?
That's a tough question and is better directed to your veterinarian.
But I, too, have thought about this question and have adopted one approach.
Like you, I'm concerned about the repercussions of applying powerful chemicals to my horse to keep flies away.
So at the beginning of fly season, I use fly sprays that contain "natural" extracts, such as from eucalyptus, geraniums, chrysanthemums, etc.
I use them throughout the summer and into autumn unless they don't work, like on those warmer and humid days when the flies get vicious and the spray just doesn't seem to work anymore.
At that point, I turn to a more powerful chemical spray and try to use it even more carefully.
I've discussed this with my vet and several very experienced riders and they all reason that having my horse stomp one or more feet against the ground every 15 seconds or going crazy because of flies causes it's own problems.
They feel that fly sprays should be safe if used properly following the manufacturers directions.
As soon the fly problem lessens, I go back to the natural sprays.
When about to ride, I never spray his back.
I don't want any chemical, natural or otherwise, between his saddle pad and skin.
So I tack him up first and then spray his legs, croup, belly, chest, and neck.
When applying any kind of spray, I never spray near my horse's face.
Instead, I'll spray my fingers and rub it under his chin, on his ears, in them around the edges, etc.
And yes, I do wonder if I'm taking a chance by touching the spray directly.
I've tried using nitrile gloves, but it's not easy on warm humid days and my horse is not comfortable when I wear them around him.
And I put a fly mask on him while riding of such days.
I still feel you should ask your own vet for his/her advice on this topic.
But I hope the foregoing provides a starting point for consideration.
July 14, 2008 – MOUNTING PRESSURES
Reposted as separate article. See: Mounting Pressures article.
July 12, 2008 – THE BENEFITS OF VARIETY (NO! Not ABOUT DATING)
Reposted as separate article. See: The Benefits Of Variety (NO! Not About Dating) article.
July 7, 2008 – HOW TO CARRY DRINKING WATER – REVISITED
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I don't know what kind of canteen to buy.
There seem to be many styles.
Yes, there do seem to be many.
I've seen one and two quart, round metal canteens, many styles of water bottles with sheaths, and soft, bladder-style water bags that collapse as you use up the water in many horse accessory catalogs.
I carry a military style canteen.
It's thick plastic and holds a quart.
Mine is made by the Richland Yellowstone Manufacturing company and sold through tack dealers across the U.S.
It comes with a sheath that has a scissor snap at the top and a one inch, D-ring on the bottom.
I'll be adding a second as soon as I receive my new saddle.
The key is to get the kind of canteen that is most appealing to you and that carries the amount of water you need.
July 3, 2008 – HOW TO CARRY DRINKING WATER
Reposted as separate article. See: Carrying & Managing Drinking Water on Rides article.
July 2, 2008 – MANAGING DRINKING WATER ON A RIDE
Reposted as separate article. See: Carrying & Managing Drinking Water on Rides article.
July 1, 2008 – THE BALANCE OF LIFE
Life is about balance — it always has been.
There are good things, and there are bad things; and as the saying goes, "into everyone's life a little rain must fall" (sometimes more).
Well, it's no different for me, and I, too, get good news and bad news, sometimes, at almost the very same time.
For example, I just learned that my saddle has shipped and I'll get it in a few days — that's the good news.
And, my credit card statement came in today; it has a charge for the saddle and for gas purchased this month — that's the bad news.
I'm hoping the quality of the saddle and its comfort for my horse and me will make me feel the cost is worth it.
As for the cost of the gas, I don't think there's anything that will make me feel better about that.
I mean, my vehicle is not running any better.
It's not quieter, smoother, faster, or more powerful.
It's not prettier, shinier, or making other drivers pull over to let me by.
So, I 'm having trouble figuring out what additional value I'm getting by purchasing this more expensive gasoline.
Perhaps I'm single-handedly saving the U.S. economy.
Or my contribution is preserving worldwide trade until the economy can turn around and resurrect itself.
Maybe, there's something happening on a cosmic scale and my sole purchases, like the "butterfly effect" in meteorology, form a seed of great importance that will bring about some critical event to save the universe.
WOW! I could be a nexus in the space-time continuum!!!
That means I could play a major role in saving the universe…at least in this dimension.
I had no idea of my place in the overall scheme of things.
Or maybe…just maybe…I'm rather unimportant in the big scheme of things and this is a message I should park the "gas eater" and ride my horse more…yeah…that must be it…SHEESH...
June 30, 2008 – KEEP YOUR HORSES SAFE AROUND THE FARM
Reposted as separate article. See: Keep Your Horses Safe Around the Farm article.
June 28, 2008 – A SMALL ACCIDENT – REVISITED
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
In ref to the "Small Accident" article - consider mentioning the mental state of the horse now.
Anytime that saddle hits his back, or while taking it off etc. he may get a "flashback" of the time it tried to "eat him".
His owner needs to re-introduce the saddle in a way that is sensitive to this accident to help him overcome any future apprehension towards it.
Depending on the horse, this can be a total non-issue, or one that can persist with the possibility of having to re-train the horse to accept the saddle.
As long as the owner is aware of this and is willing to approach the horse with patience, all should be well.
You are correct, of course.
And his owner has discussed this already, in fact, with me as well as with the barn owner.
We don't expect a problem because of her horse's normally very calm disposition and because the panic started once the saddle was under his belly — we're all hoping and expecting that he'll view them each differently.
That said, his owner does intend to take that first saddling slowly and carefully to assure her horse is comfortable at each step.
If he shows signs of concern, she'll stop the tacking process and spend more time getting him re-accustomed to having something on his back, starting with his saddle pad.
I particularly wanted to share this incident with our readership because loosening the girth/cinch once we dismount and don't intend to remount, but aren't yet at or inside the barn, is something many of us do for the comfort of our horses.
It's not much different than a guy loosening his tie at the end of the day or taking off our shoes to relax after a hard day's work.
But it certainly does show how it's not enough just to be aware of our surroundings when with horses.
They're big and powerful, and can easily spook.
So being "in the moment" also means we must attempt to anticipate what might go wrong.
Because if it does, unlike with a small pet, we may not be able to keep control over the situation, so proactive avoidance of problems becomes very important.
June 27, 2008 – RAISING AND LOWERING TRAILER GEAR
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Last year I was camping next to someone who used a cordless drill to raise and lower his running gear on the horse trailer when hooking up and unhooking from his truck.
Before I could get my horse taken care of and go talk to him, he left.
Does anyone sell a cordless drill for this purpose?
The reason the trailer manufacturer provides a manual handle to raise and lower the gear is because they feel it should be done that way.
But if you want to go this route, you need to be careful about several things.
You don't want to round the head of the bolt that raises and lowers the gear, break something, nor hurt your wrists.
I suggest you use a slow drill speed when moving the gear up or down and that you set the drill's clutch at a setting that will slip once the gear is mostly up or down, then finish the process with the manual handle.
This will reduce the chance that you'll force or break something.
You certainly don't want that to happen, especially when you're away from home.
To acquire the pieces you'll need, get the handle for your horse trailer that raises and lowers the gear and take it to your hardware store.
Someone there will be able to tell you the size of the hex head socket you'll need to purchase.
Also take your cordless drill so the hardware store can provide whatever size shaft you'll need to mate the socket and drill chuck.
The socket will likely be 3/8 drive — I don't know whether you'll find a shaft with the proper square drive head at one end and nothing at the other so it will fit into a drill chuck — I've not seen that before.
The man you saw may have cut the female end off a 3/8 drive extension.
If you still intend to go this way, please consider the cautions I've suggested so you don't break something or get hurt.
June 26, 2008 – MORE ADVANCED HORSE PHOTOGRAPHY
Combined with June 25th posting as a sepearte article. See: Horse Photography article.
June 25, 2008 – HORSE PHOTOGRAPHY
Reposted as separate article. See: Horse Photography article.
June 24, 2008 – A SMALL ACCIDENT
This past weekend, I went trail riding with four friends and we had a small "event".
We had gone on a fun, three-hour lunch/trail ride and were returning to the barn.
Within a half-mile or so of the barn, we dismounted as we often do to allow the horses some time to cool down and relax without us on their backs for the remainder of the trip.
It's even good for us to walk a distance after spending a significant amount of time in the saddle.
Generally, we'll loosen the girths a little to make the horses more comfortable during our walk.
Another rider and I were in the rear and had dismounted first.
The others rode a little longer and got further ahead before dismounting.
As my friend and I were coming out of the forest near the barn, one of the other rider's horses was running free; well, not completely free, he had his saddle under his belly and was trying hard to dislodge it.
We watched in frustration as we saw him upset and tearing the saddle apart.
What we were still to learn was that he had also ripped his reins off the bit.
Once free of his saddle, he did what all horses do after a scary event, well, what they do before an event, and any other time they can, he went about grazing as if nothing had ever happened.
His rider came running to check him and we found he had hurt his front left leg above the fetlock, likely from it catching the bridle during the panic — thankfully, the bridle broke.
Though he needed some sutures from the vet, no serious damage was done and an examination of his mouth showed no injuries there.
In a follow-up conversation with his owner, it appears she had loosened his cinch too much and he panicked a minute or two later as it started a slide down his side and then under his belly.
He pulled his reins out of her hands as he ran off to escape the monster under his stomach.
From this experience, we all learned a lesson: don't loosen the cinch before returning to the barn.
While we care about our horses and want them to be as comfortable as possible, safety is a much higher concern.
I've thought about this event over the last few days thanking my lucky stars I've not loosened my saddle too much in the past and realized it's not easy to determine where, exactly, "too loose" begins and ends, and that this could have happened to me and almost anyone else.
Looking at this pragmatically, our horses had worn their saddles comfortably for three hours, another 5 or 10 minutes would have made no difference at all.
And while the injury was minor, it could have been far worse with potential serious damage to his mouth.
This is just another day of learning a new lesson regarding better care for our four-legged friends.
No matter how much we know, there's always more to learn and I've heard of cases of horses hurting themselves while tied to a post, or using cross ties, or a host of many other circumstances.
Each horse is an individual and something that doesn't bother one horse may panic another, or panic the same horse on another day.
Being alert and focused on what we're doing when with horses is most important.
I've written in the past about being "in the moment" — this is a reminder for me, as well as others, that "the moment" is all the time.
June 21, 2008 – BACKING A TRAILER
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How the heck do you back a long trailer up?
I am having a devil of a time doing it.
Any tips?
First, let's talk about mirrors (also see prior post).
Mirrors on any vehicle are wonderful once you learn to use them.
But most people don't actually learn how to back up using mirrors, they just use them to see what's beside them.
My dad taught me how to drive, and about a year later, started teaching me how to back with mirrors and most important, how to "trust them".
You need to do the same if you haven't already.
Trusting your mirrors means you're comfortable backing up your car or truck without having to turn your head around to actually look back.
It also means your mind is comfortable associating directions that are reversed in your mirror — this takes practice.
At age 18, I was also a volunteer fireman and learned how to back a long pumper into the garage at close quarters without having to stop, and more importantly, without hitting anything.
Again, this was done through practice and trusting the mirrors.
Once I was comfortable backing any single vehicle, it was time to add a trailer.
The distance between your truck's rear wheels and the front-most wheels of your trailer makes a huge difference as to the difficulty of backing up — the longer the distance, the easier it is — the shorter, that harder it is to back up your trailer.
So what did my dad do?
He made me learn to back up a small trailer attached to a lawn tractor — it was murder!
The distance was so small, that any turn that went too far happened in seconds and caused the trailer to jackknife.
And he didn't want me to keep stopping, pulling forward, and starting again; he wanted me to do a controlled backup that included turns and staying on the road.
To make matters worse, he hopped on and showed me that it can be done.
Needless to say, it was far easier to watch him do it than to do it myself — I must have jackknifed at least a hundred times.
BUT, I kept getting better.
Once I was at least decent, he told me that backing up longer trailers would be much easier.
That surprised me because I though an 18 wheeler would be harder yet, but it's not.
When I later helped a friend by backing up his boat trailer, I found that my dad was right and it was much easier than that stupid lawn tractor and tiny trailer.
That's because a longer trailer gives you more time to react before the articulation between your vehicle and trailer has gone too far toward a jackknife.
If you really want to get better, there is no substitute for practice.
I think my dad did it the right way by making me learn with a lawn tractor and small trailer.
It used little gas while I practiced; if I did jackknife (and I did…a lot), no real damage was done, and I could see the entire trailer and learn the cues.
Of course, there were no mirrors on the tractor, but converting to mirrors which I already knew how to use because of my prior experience with them on small and big trucks was rather easy.
So, get comfortable with using and trusting your mirrors first, then get lots of practice backing a trailer.
Back slowly and make your turns gradual and gentle — you cannot easily make a sharp turn while backing a trailer when first learning.
Your truck and trailer should bend in a smooth, gradual turn and remind you of the way you want to make your horse bend around a turn in a ring.
Pay particular attention to how overturning your truck will make the trailer turn the opposite way and jackknife.
If that happens, the ONLY fix is to stop, pull forward to undo the overturn, and begin again.
Once you get the "hang of it", backing with a trailer will be no more than another familiar and comfortable driving technique you have at your disposal.
I hope this helps — good luck!
NOTE: The advice now given to truck and bus drivers, is to back up ONLY when you have to do so — you cannot see everything behind you when backing.
Especially when backing with a trailer, no matter how good you get, ALWAYS try to have someone guide you and watch to assure that no person or animal steps behind your trailer when backing it.
June 20, 2008 – HOW FAR OUT TO SET TRUCK MIRRORS
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How can you tell if your mirrors on the truck are set far enough out when hauling?
You might think that the further you have your mirrors out, the better it is.
But that only works to a point.
After that, problems can start to occur.
The reason to have side mirrors is more than just seeing if something is there.
You also want to use them to align the side of your vehicle with other objects when backing.
Those objects could be other vehicles you're backing between or a garage you're backing into.
Generally, you want to be able to look into either side mirror and see the entire side of your vehicle from the rear portion of your driver's or passenger's door to the back of the vehicle.
When hauling, you want your mirrors to include the sides of your trailer.
If the trailer is wider than your truck, the mirrors may have to stick further out to see the sides of the trailer.
But don't give in to the temptation to move the mirrors much further out than they need to be or you'll be "clipping" objects when backing or even when driving into narrow spaces.
June 19, 2008 – RINGS & CHEEK PIECES
Reposted as separate article. See: Understanding Bits article.
June 18, 2008 – BIT MOUTHPIECES
Reposted as separate article. See: Understanding Bits article.
June 17, 2008 – BIT PARTS (not to be confused with small movie roles)
Reposted as separate article. See: Understanding Bits article.
June 16, 2008 – A LITTLE BITTY INTRO TO BITS
It seems that many riders really don't understand much about bits — and it's easy to see why.
Look in a catalog and you may see 80 - 100 or more bits from which to choose with little or no explanation as to the differences — no wonder many people are confused.
But in reality, there are not that many components that are combined together in different configurations to provide those 80 or 100 variations we all see.
So, this column will present a small series explaining the more common bit components and what they do.
When done, you should be able to understand what many bits are designed to do (I say "many bits" because I definitely don't know know every bit there is).
However, I will "come clean" right now and mention that I'm not a proponent of harsh bits.
I will explain what makes a bit harsh, but you'll definitely notice a bias for the gentler variations.
June 14, 2008 – WHAT'S SAFER?
ON FOOT OR MOUNTED?
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
"Is it safer to be on or off your horse if he gets surprised?"
I always feel safer when in the saddle.
If my horse were to spook while I'm leading him on the ground, my only options would be to try to hold and control him or to let him go.
If let go, I'd worry he could run into traffic or some other kind of trouble.
Controlling a scared horse is a delicate situation in the best of circumstances — it can get completely out of control in a hurry, and it may not even be our fault depending on the circumstances.
At least if in the saddle, I'd stay with him, even if he ran.
Plus, I could control his speed and direction so he doesn't make a bad decision in a panic.
Obviously, if the source of the spook were a bear, mountain lion, or some such, I'd think everyone would prefer being in the saddle.
That doesn't mean we'd necessarily make it to safety if being chased, but it sure beats having my horse run off and me being left on foot to face the problem alone.
Of course, if our horse was running off a cliff and we couldn't stop him, it would be time to leave.
A much better question is, "what kind of training do my horse and I need to build mutual trust and be in full control of my horse in almost any situation?"
Horses have been used in war and rescue situations throughout history.
Clearly, some people have mastered control and trust with their horses and there's no reason we can't learn to do the same.
Good horsemanship is all about building skills, knowledge, and trust with our four-legged friends in ways that work with their natural instincts.
It takes time and work, but it's certainly worth it!
June 13, 2008 – SAFETY AROUND HORSES
Reposted as separate article. See: Safety Around Horses article.
June 12, 2008 – CHOOSING A MOWER FOR A LARGE FIELD
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
"I've got 6 acres of event field to mow and don't know how to select the right mower for my filed."
This is an interesting question because there are so many variables to consider about the landscape and then match it to a large selection of mowers from the manufacturers.
First, if you can let your horse(s) graze the field, that may be your solution.
But if not, then consider the following questions:
- The size of the field
You've already answered this one.
At 4MPH with some overlap, a 48" mower can cut an acre of grass in about 40 minutes.
So 6 acres will take about 4 hours with a mower this size.
A larger mower will shorten the time, or maybe you can mow faster if the field is flat and smooth.
- The hillyness of the field
Hills can slow you down.
They require more power to climb a steep hill and a wider machine with a low center of gravity to maintain stability and not flip it.
Fortunately, you have an event field and they're usually flat or just a mild slope.
But if one or more sides of the field end in a steep hil, don't overlook stability as a safety factor.
- The amount of obstacles and trees to mow around
Event fields are usually clear, but if you have lots of trees or other obstacles to mow around on another part of your property and this mower will also be used for that area, a zero-turn mower will definitely speed up the process.
- Amount of rocks in the field
Mowing a field which includes rocks you must go over can be hard on your mower blades.
A flail mower incorporates hardened steel pivoting blades that can strike a rock with minimal damage and keep on mowing.
There is no one mower that's best for all fields.
Rather, you need to take an inventory of your own field and discuss it with a tractor/mower dealer to find the best product for you.
Unfortunately, because of the size of your field, this is not a good application for an inexpensive home store tractor mower.
You'll actually spend less over the long term and be much happier with the mower, (maybe even enjoy the job each week) if you look at a new or used commercial machine truly designed for the kind of mowing you need to do.
June 11, 2008 – CAN YOU CARE FOR YOUR OWN HORSE?
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
"I bought a horse about 4 years ago, he is my first and has been boarded at a stable.
I now have the opportunity to pasture board him next door to my home.
I am concerned and am not sure how or what to do to bring him home.
"
Reposted as separate article. See: Can You Care For Your Own Horse? article.
June 10, 2008 – TIRE SAFETY WHEN TOWING HORSES
Reposted as separate article. See: Tire Safety When Towing Horses article.
June 9, 2008 – TRUCKS FOR TOWING HORSE TRAILERS
When considering the purchase of a truck for towing a horse trailer, or to use your existing vehicle, consider the following:
- The truck towing capacity rating must be capable of towing the weight of the trailer, the horses, the tack, the hay bales, water, and the weight of EVERYTHING ELSE you expect to carry at the same time with your horses.
- The trailer hitch must be able to take this same COMPLETE load or more — NEVER use a bumper hitch, not even for a one horse trailer.
- The shorter the baseline of the truck's wheels, the less weight you should haul, even if it is well under the towing capacity of your truck.
When towing a load, long trucks are much more stable than shorter vehicles, such as SUVs.
If you intend to haul with an SUV or similar shorter wheel-base vehicle, downgrade the tow weight limit significantly to provide a greater safety margin so the shifting weight of horses in your trailer doesn't twist your truck and make you lose control.
There are many more requirements to keep you and your horse(s) safe while towing and a separate, more comprehensive article will be coming later this year.
Remember, your horse's life depends on proper towing vehicle, trailer, and towing driving expertise.
What you may not realize, is that your own life, that of any other passengers, and that of those in vehicles that will be in front of you, beside, and behind you on the highway are also at risk.
Towing horses properly and safely is much more than just driving a vehicle with more weight.
June 7, 2008 – EASY ACCESS SADDLE STORAGE WHILE RIDING
Reposted as separate article. See: Easy Access Saddle Storage While Riding article.
June 6, 2008 – CONSIDERING A GPS – REVISITED
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
"I'm looking to buy a GPS and really liked your suggestions about what to look for in a receiver.
But there are so many units to choose from, even from just from one manufacturer.
I'm somewhat confused and on a tight budget.
What do I select?"
There's likely no way I can select a unit for you; I don't know what else you'd enjoy using a GPS for and what else you consider important.
But I will try to identify those features that I think are most valuable for riding if you have to make hard choices and compromises.
Ability to Display Topo Maps
On some of the most basic units, you'll get a compass and simple directions and lines pointing to waypoints — I find those units frustrating.
At the very least, you'll want a unit that can display a topographical (topo) map of the area in which you're riding.
We're likely all familiar with maps and being able to also see our elevation is useful in finding out where we are and what route we should take.
If a GPS includes just a base map, it's definitely not enough and provides minimal or no detail on the scales you'll use for hiking and riding.
Unfortunately, the topo map often must be purchased separately.
High Sensitivity
Unless you generally ride the open plains, I also feel you NEED to get a unit that is rated "High Sensitivity", no matter what the cost.
Here in New England, most undeveloped space is forest.
In fact, if you look at an agricultural map of the U.S., you'll see that from Ohio east to the coast is actually one big forest with cities and roads carved out.
Add in the fact that the topography is hilly and in some places, mountainous, and you realize that you'll usually be under tree cover and in low places between hills.
No matter what you can afford to spend, if your unit is not sensitive enough to receive satellite-positioning signals under those trees and in those valleys, it will have no value to you at all.
In that case, I would save my money until I accumulate enough or the prices come down further so I could buy a unit that will work for me on the trails where I ride.
Other Features
Other often included features, such as a color display, barometer, altimeter, electronic compass, etc., are nice, but not really needed.
And while I recommended the walkie-talkie feature, you can inexpensively buy a set of two Family Radio Service (FRS) walkie-talkies as your cell phone backup for as little as $15 - $30 — it doesn't have to be built into the GPS unit.
I just like that convenience and the reduced need to carry still more stuff that also occasionally needs recharging or fresh batteries.
Trip Computer – Just Plain Fun
The trip computer is nice because is gives you the distance, time, and speeds traveled during your ride.
My fellow riders often ask how far we've gone and our fastest speed hit, especially after a gallop.
Fortunately, almost all the GPS units I've seen have this, even the cheaper ones, so that shouldn't be an issue.
June 5, 2008 – LEARNING FROM YOUR HORSE
Reposted as separate article. See: Learning From Your Horse article.
June 4, 2008 – SIGHTING OPPORTUNITIES ON TRAIL RIDES
Reposted as separate article. See: Sighting Opportunities On Trail Rides article.
June 3, 2008 – PART 7 – SADDLE SEARCH
Reposted as separate article. See: Saddle Search Series article.
June 2, 2008 – CONSIDERING A GPS FOR TRAIL RIDING?
GPS (Global Positioning Satellite) receivers are all the rage these days for hikers, cars, boats, planes, and yes, even trail riders (at least those that ride on more than just a few acres).
I ride in a state forest of almost 15,000 acres that abuts the 35,000+ acre state forest of an adjoining state.
That's over 50,000 acres or 80 square miles — one could truly get lost, or worse, hurt with no one around when exploring the far reaches (the North 4,000?)
For those of you considering the purchase of a GPS to accompany your trail rides, consider the following features to make the unit more useful for trail riding:
- Hi-Sensitivity Version – so that it is able to receive satellite location signals even in narrow valleys and under thick forest canopies.
If it doesn't work where you go, it's useless.
- Built-in Walkie-Talkie – as a backup for your cell phone in case your cell phone's batteries die, it gets broken, you're in a low or no-signal area, (or your horse mistakes it for a treat because you answered a call with food on your hand while eating lunch).
- Built-in Weather Radio – to keep you apprised of fast-changing weather conditions.
- Trip Computer – to tell you how long your trip took, your maximum speed (during the aforementioned exciting gallop), your average speed (walking could be faster), distance to destination, and much more.
- Electronic Breadcrumb Trailing – so you can see the path you've taken, and if necessary, go back the way you came. This is also handy for uploading to your computer to take a good look at the path you rode for the day. It's often different than you would think and really helps you to learn your way around a park or forest.
I do carry and use a map and compass when venturing beyond the area I know.
But I've found a GPS also adds information and fun to a ride.
And while several of my riding friends laughed at first, they're now often asking how long we've been out, how far we've traveled, and how fast we hit on that last gallop…and a few are getting their own…
May 31, 2008 – THE COMPLETE BODY SURVEY – REVISITED
"How-to Horse Guy" question/feedback:
"You mentioned putting a finger into your horse's ear when you do your body survey of him, doesn't he hate that? My horse does!"
Yes, I quickly run a finger tip into each ear feeling for sores, fly eggs, liquid (blood, serum, etc.) or anything else that just doesn't seem right — And no, my horse has no problem with my putting a finger into his ear.
Many horses are initially uncomfortable with anyone toughing their ears at all, even on the outside, let alone inside.
But you can desensitize your horse to almost anything.
It just takes some patience and slowly getting your horse used to being touched there.
In fact, it's a good idea to do so, if for no other reason so he/she will let the vet check the ears during a physical.
Think of what our horses have already had to learn not to fear, such as a halter being placed around the head and neck, no less; or a bit being placed in the mouth, floating of their teeth; and much more.
The ears are no different.
During my survey, I also check his teeth, look at his eyes, and look into his nostrils. I'm not doing a medical examination, just looking to assure I don't see a cut or other injury, blood oozing, bug bites or eggs — that sort of thing.
Checking our horse every time we visit or ride is a good way to catch problems while they're still minor and easily treated.
And it also means we're greatly reducing the chance our horse has to suffer with a problem until we notice — I'd feel really badly about that.
May 30, 2008 – STAYING DRY
For the last 15 years or so, I've been using hi-tech clothing.
I often have to hike in almost any season to get to some of the locations where I'll shoot landscape photos.
But I don't enjoy it when I get wet unless I'm actually swimming or snorkeling.
The rest of the time, I don't want to get wet.
As this relates to caring for and riding horses, I feel similarly.
So, I'm a big fan of breathable polymer membranes in my outerwear.
These membranes stop water from getting through while they let my perspiration escape.
The most famous and original is likely familiar to you: Gore-Tex.
And there are other products specially designed fabrics to perform this function, such as Epic, eVent, and L.L.Bean's Tek2.5.
Regardless, they all help keep you dry when active outdoors.
Another benefit they provide is excellent wind blockage; this is especially important in the winter when strong, cold winds can quickly steal away our heat through normal clothing.
But don't stop there, this form of clothing is available in many products related to riding.
For example:
- My riding coat with these materials keep water and wind away from the trunk of my body, even in a heavy rain.
- My riding boots use it to keep my feet dry even when I step into a deep puddle of water, mud, or horse waste.
- My gloves use it to keep my hands dry even if I brush off a lot of wet snow or put my hand into liquid water.
- I have ski pants I use when riding of very cold days that keep the water and wind off my legs.
So when colder weather comes along, with the proper clothing, you can enjoy riding in it without the discomfort.
And these clothes generally last a long time. I have coats and gloves that I use every year and have had them for over 15 years so far — they're still in good shape and I'll be using them again next winter.
While my outerwear is waterproof, I'm not one to intentionally go riding in rainy weather, especially when it's cold, for my horse's sake as well as mine.
But, here in New England, the weather has a reputation of changing very quickly regardless of the forecast.
I like the fact that if it should change quickly and start to rain before I get all the way back to the barn, hi-tech clothing will keep most of me completely dry and significantly reduce the risk of hypothermia.
May 29, 2008 – CHEAPER BARN LIGHTING – SAVE MONEY!
It's been all over the news for the last year or so, but I'm surprised at how many barns I enter that still use traditional incandescent bulbs.
Just replacing all those bulbs in your barn with their Compact Fluorescent Light (CFL) bulb equivalents will drop your electricity costs to power them by about 73% — that's a lot of savings for the price of the replacement bulbs — you get those savings every month!
There will be one inconvenience, but in my opinion, it's a very small one.
Depending on the CFL bulbs you get, you may have to wait a minute, maybe even two minutes, for full brightness.
But when you consider that many barns leave these lights on much of the day, the only person that will notice is the person turning the lights on in the morning.
And they may take another minute or two more in the winter depending how far north you live.
But you'll get even more savings because you leave those lights on much longer then because of the shorter, darker days of winter.
But don't stop there, change them in your house, basement, and garages, too.
About the only place I've found that seems to make little sense is in closets, because we're in there for such a short time that the savings are small AND it makes little sense to wait for them to brighten up.
Quite an easy way to save almost 75% of your lighting costs in these days of ever increasing energy prices!
I'll be posting a more comprehensive article on this topic during the summer that will actually quantify the costs and help you calculate your actual savings.
May 28, 2008 – A MORE COMFORTABLE STIRRUP
Posted as separate article. See: A More Comfortable Stirrup article.
May 27, 2008 – RIDING HELMETS – A RECENT "CLOSE CALL"
While this is a "how-to" column, I thought I'd share an experience of this past Sunday during the Memorial Day weekend.
I'm a big proponent of wearing riding helmets.
When in my 20s, I was an Emergency Medical Technician and firefighter.
During warmer weather, we responded to many motorcycle accidents causing serious head injuries — some were DOA.
I owned several motorcycles myself at that time and these experiences motivated me to always wear a helmet.
Coming to horseback riding later in life, there was no question I would wear a riding helmet.
While the photo of me on the "About How-To Horse Guy" Webpage shows me with a hat, that was for the purposes of the photo.
Except for one weekend each year at which most attendees wear western garb at the ranch where I board, I ALWAYS wear a helmet when riding.
I occasionally ride the trails alone, but 90 - 95% of the time, I ride with others, both for safety and social reasons.
My horse is a little bigger than average (~16 hh) and I'm a little taller than most (almost 6' 3").
When I'm following "the pack", they'll often "scoot" cleanly under small branches and I'll bend my head down so the twigs hit my helmet rather than my face.
They don't do this on purpose (I hope), they just don't realize that I "stick up higher" than they do.
On Sunday, I was on a 6 hour trail ride with a friend and farther from the ranch than usual.
We were at a slow canter on a trail and I was in front.
When we rounded a corner, the butt of a one inch branch was facing my head.
The branch had broken from some upper level and settled on a lower branch just above me and pointed at my face.
I immediately faced down, ducked, and yelled "BRANCH!" — the branch end hit my helmet and glanced off — that helmet made a potentially dangerous event nothing more than a minor thud.
(I've checked my head and there are no splinters sticking out.
And my riding partner said the branch was above her head.)
Now readers may say, I shouldn't have been at a canter, even a slow one, or we should have been walking our horses because, while I'd ridden the trail before, it wasn't recently, and branches drop from time to time due to heavy winds — I would not disagree with this advice.
On the other hand, we can't think of every possible situation, there is some modicum of risk in just being around horses, let alone riding them, especially at speed.
And we still have to remember, we're on very powerful, 1,000+ pound beasts that have their own minds and can deviate from our instructions — we've already accepted some risk.
If it wasn't for my helmet, I don't know what would have happened.
It's protected me from head scratches, through my tumbles that have contused or scraped my lower body, and now a direct blow to the head.
Because I see many people of all ages on the trail without helmets, some of them close friends (yes, I bug them about getting helmets), I just wanted to share this experience in the hopes that at least some of them, and any readers like them, will reconsider.
May 25 -26, 2008 – PART 6 – SADDLE SEARCH
Reposted as separate article. See: Saddle Search Series article.
May 23, 2008 – HYGIENE AROUND HORSES
One of the more difficult aspects of spending time around horses is that of cleanliness.
We pick up sebum when touching them in almost any way from grooming their coat to riding.
Sebum is an oily secretion from the skin of almost all mammals.
And cleaning hooves exposes us to dirt and biological horse waste replete with all manner of pathogens from both.
As a result, hygiene is difficult.
Yet, I want to clean my hands before eating a sandwich out on the trail, or even at the barn.
I also want to clean them before touching the steering wheel and driving away in my vehicle.
So, I carry two forms of "wipes" to achieve that goal.
I buy regular diaper wipes (yes, you men can laugh) at the supermarket or convenience store that I carry in my vehicle.
And I carry about six or eight individually wrapped pre-moistened, sanitized, hand wipes in my cantle bag.
Both make cleaning quick and easy at the barn, on the trail, or any other place where soap and water are not readily available.
(They also make lunch much more palatable.)
May 22, 2008 – RIDING FOOTWEAR
Reposted as separate article. See: Riding Footwear article.
May 21, 2008 – COMPLETE HORSE BODY SURVEY
Whenever I visit my horse, whether to ride, train, or just to check on him, I perform a quick, whole-body survey.
I do this even if I was at the barn the prior day.
Something can easily happen or change from day to day.
To perform the survey, I run my hands methodically over his whole body starting at his head and then down his neck to his body, all over his sides and under his complete belly.
I cover one side from top to bottom, including down each leg, then do the same on the other side.
I even rub a finger into each ear as well as touching the complete outside of his ears.
I'm feeling for wounds, ticks, fly eggs, bumps, depressions, swelling, hot spots, and anything else that doesn't seem right.
The whole survey takes me about 30 - 50 seconds and I get more sensitive each time I do it because I'm really getting to know his body and what feels right and doesn't.
I started doing this right after I got him last year as a way to give him a quick survey and I do it each day I see him.
This is a great way to discover problems early when they're not yet an emergency and I highly recommend it to all horse owners, and even renters and lesson students who care about the horses they ride.
The more you do it, the more you'll know when something doesn't feel right and needs attention.
May 12 - 20, 2008 – PART 1 - 5 – SADDLE SEARCH
Reposted as separate article. See: Saddle Search Series article.
