QueryHorse – "Horse Guy"

March 9, 2010 – STALL WALL HEIGHT

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

My boyfriend and I are thinking about building a new barn. How high should the walls be between the stalls?

You probably want them to be at least seven feet high. That's a height that will stop most horses from reaching over and biting or harassing their stall neighbor. While posturing and daily testing and sometimes reestablishing the pecking order is part and parcel of being horses, having a safe place to rest part of the day is important for any animal.

The height of the gate into the stall can be lower to allow the horses to stick their heads out and see each other as well as to see who's coming down the aisle. Though, you may still want something higher you can also close if you should have a horse that needs a little more isolation because he tries to bite everything that goes by. If you don't want to do that to every stall, have at least one be that way in case you own such a horse or board or overnight one from time to time.

March 8, 2010 – TRAILERING DRAFT HORSES

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

I've towed standard-sized horses before, but now I need to tow some drafts. What extra things do I need to do?

If you're able to use and pull the same trailer you usually pull, there are no extra tasks to complete, but there are different considerations to think about. If you'll be towing a larger trailer to accommodate these larger horses, there are additional concerns to be addressed to tow them safely.

Assure your trailer is large enough for the draft horses. That means high enough, long enough, and wide enough. You also need to assure the trailer is rated for the weight of drafts. If it is sized for them, it will very likely also be designed to take their added weight;
Assure your vehicle is rated for the weight of the trailer you're going to use plus the weight of these large horses you're going to tow;
Assure your vehicle's hitch is rated for the weight of this trailer plus the weight of these horses;
If you're using a bigger tow vehicle, make sure you familiarize yourself thoroughly with this tow vehicle BEFORE the actual towing job. Read its manual and drive it without a trailer to get used to its handling, turning, and stopping distances. Make sure you know where all its controls are located;
Pay particular attention to the brake controller and its adjustments, especially if it's not normally used with this trailer. If it's an electric over hydraulic system, or any system different from that which you've used before, make sure you understand it, that it's working properly, and that you've gotten a feeling for its normal operation;
If this is a larger/longer trailer than you usually tow, give yourself additional clearance around turns:
- If the trailer is wider, you may have to move your tow vehicle and ride a foot or more to the outside of the road than normally to assure you don't cross the center line;
- With a wider trailer, determine if you need temporary extended mirrors so you can see behind you when driving and for backing;
- If the trailer is higher, be alert for bridge clearance heights and the same for road-crossing wires and branches. This is another reason to drive slowly — you may find you need to stop before going under a low-hanging branch to avoid a crash;
Drive a little more slowly once loaded. Even if you're able to use your normal tow vehicle to pull these horses, you're going to notice the extra weight of these large horses and you need to adjust your driving accordingly. That means driving more slowly and giving yourself more time and distance in which to slow down and stop at intersections; and
Consider the ground conditions of your route and destination. Hauling heavy loads in early spring can be a problem if the ground is saturated and soft.

Pulling a wider, taller, and/or heavier trailer requires some adjustments in your driving technique and additional alertness to assure you don't accidently strike anything with your extended dimensions. You also need to be aware of slower acceleration and deceleration — that means longer starting and stopping distances must be accommodated. You may want to plan your route to reduce the chances of problems from potential obstructions, sharp turns, and steep hills. For example, it can be very difficult or even impossible to negotiate narrow roads or sharp turns with longer trucks and trailers — think of your total load length — think ahead.

March 5, 2010 – HORSE TRAILER WEIGHT

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

What does the average horse trailer weigh?

Are you asking about a stock trailer or an enclosed design? Do you need a 2-horse trailer, 4-horse, 10-horse, or something else? Do you need a tack/dressing room? As you can see, all these factors will affect the weight of the trailer. And if you add living quarters, weight can really go up. But, believe it or not, whether the trailer is steel or aluminum will not make as big a difference as you might think. It's more an issue with a larger trailer than with the smaller two and three horse designs.

Let's get you started with some "ballpark" numbers, which is likely why you're asking this question. The lightest trailers are stock trailers because they're a very open, no-frills design. A 2-horse stock trailer will weigh about 2,300 pounds while an enclosed 2-horse trailer will be more around 2,600 pounds. Still, as you can see, the difference in weight is only about 12%. If the trailer has a tack/dressing room, add another 300 - 400 pounds for a total of about 3,000 pounds for the empty trailer.

Many manufacturers of enclosed trailers without a tack/dressing room will tell you to estimate about 1,300 pounds of trailer weight per horse. Then, add the actual weight of the horses you'll carry. For a 2-horse trailer with two 1,000 pound horses, you'll be towing about 4,600 pounds. And don't forget to include all the items you'll need to include, such as hay, tack, and water (if you carry it).

I recommend estimating on the higher end to assure you've got a tow vehicle and hitch that can properly pull all the weight you'll carry.

March 4, 2010 – WARM & SAFE WINTER RIDING

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

I've been freezing this winter whenever I go riding. Do I need special clothes?

You may. You don't mention what you do wear when riding, where you're located, and in what temperatures you ride. Obviously, the colder the temperatures, the warmer the clothes you need. But it's not as simple as just wearing a heavier jacket because other aspects of riding also affect your comfort.

For example, because riding can be hard work for the rider as well as the horse, the rider is expending various amounts of calories depending on the gait of the horse. If you're able to trot and canter, you're burning considerably more calories posting at the trot and moving with the horse at the canter — at the walk, you'd burn much less. During a higher burn rate, you may also be perspiring, so you need clothes that will let your body breathe, but will also protect it from the elements, such as rain and wet snow if you get caught in that.

We have an article on QueryHorse that goes into considerable detail about what to wear when riding in the winter. It's entitled: Winter Riding & Staying Warm.

You may also want to read: Winter Riding Dangers & Staying Safe.

March 3, 2010 – LEG SQUEEZING WHILE RIDING

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

When I ride, should I be squeezing my horse with my legs?

No — definitely not! First, let's take this in pieces so we reduce the chance of confusion. To a horse, what you do with your upper legs is different than what you do with your lower legs. They feel everything, but lower leg movement is more clearly felt as a signal.

Part of riding well is sitting properly — you need to sit up straight. Sitting up straight takes you off of your butt and puts some of your weight on your inside thighs — this is a good thing from several perspectives. One effect is an improvement in your posture, but from a riding perspective, it also tones your thighs and places you in a position to be ready for the unexpected.

For example, if our horse makes a quick movement, such as a shy or a lunge forward, we'll temporarily squeeze harder with our thighs for stability. Being in tone, already properly placed, and sitting up straight better keeps us with our horse as he almost instantly moves several feet sideways with the shy.

When you want to start moving or quicken the pace when already underway, a slight, quick squeeze with the lower legs signals your horse to speed up. Even then, we need to release that squeeze instantly. This logically moves us into discussion of being relaxed and not squeezing during most of our ride.

When riding, we say that we should be "quiet" with our legs. By that we mean that our lower legs should hang at the sides without squeezing, flailing, kicking, or anything else. This way, when we do perform a squeeze, the horse notices the change.

Actually, I dislike using the word "squeeze" because it sounds as if we might maintain a death-grip around the horse's sides — nothing could be further from the truth. Rather, we give a quick, light squeeze and immediately release so it's a signal or impulse to the horse requesting that he start moving. If already moving, it requests an acceleration or even a change of gaits to a faster one. The important thing to remember is that we squeeze lightly for a half second and release. The horse will feel it and understand we want to go faster.

Some horses may not change speeds. But that usually implies they need some work. Perhaps they do understand, but don't want to go faster. That means they don't respect the rider and that issue needs to be dealt with first — it's an issue where the rider needs training separate from the horse. At other times, if the rider or other riders usually ride with a leg grip on the horse, the horse is accustomed to the constant squeeze and no longer interprets the quick squeeze as an impulse to accelerate, so that requires some training for the horse to get back to basics as well as the offending riders learning not to constantly squeeze.

I hope the foregoing helps you to better understand some uses of your legs as a riding aid and what not to do. Because of your question, the best approach for you is probably to take a few lessons on this very topic. Speak with your favorite instructor about the issue and I suspect that this can be cleared up rather easily and quickly for you with only a lesson or two.

Good luck!

March 2, 2010 – BARN CURFEW

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

How late can I stay in the barn with my horse?

Most barns have some rules regarding this sort of thing. The barns where I've boarded usually like to see everyone leave and lights out by 9:00 pm or so to let the horses have some down time and the ability to rest and sleep without being bothered. Of course, a late return from a ride or the need to be in the barn for medical reasons, such as attending to a colicking horse are exceptions. But a 9:00 pm rule is a good idea for long-term horse health.

March 1, 2010 – USING A STOCK TRAILER IN WINTER...

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Can I trailer my horses in a stock trailer during the cold weather?

You can, but you should take some precautions. As the weather gets colder, the windows, vents, and other openings in an enclosed trailer get closed to avoid hypothermia risks to the horses. With an open stock trailer, the risk is much higher, and it increases still further the faster you drive.

The best thing you can do when towing in cold weather is to enclose your stock trailer so it's no longer open. Most have panels you can purchase to enclose them. Some people make their own panels from plexiglass that can slide into the panel slots that exist for this purpose on most stock trailers. There will still be more than enough leakage for an adequate exchange of air while trailering.

If you can't enclose your stock trailer and you're going to tow in 40°F and below temperatures, you should rent or borrow an enclosed trailer. Otherwise, you're taking a risk with your horses unless you're just going for a short distance. Even at those temperatures, you need to not drive too fast nor for too long a period or your horses could be at risk. The chilling effect of driving in cold air is not to be underestimated because of the wind chill factor.

While many horses are often healthily outside in colder temperatures with wind, they usually can find refuge in a "run-in" or some natural shelter when they start getting too cold. They don't have that option when in a confined and moving trailer.

February 26, 2010 – GOING BAREFOOT...

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

If I have my horse go barefoot from now on, how long should I have to wait before riding?

It depends on what surface you're going to ride on and whether or not you'll be using hoof boots on him, especially for his front feet. If you're riding on soft ground, such as grass or sand, you likely can ride him barefoot immediately. If you're going to ride on rough ground, a gravel surface with rocks, or frozen ground, you should give your horse three to four weeks for his frogs to toughen up. If you're going to put hoof boots on him, other than getting him used to the boots and adjusting them correctly, you can usually go out riding on any surface without waiting.

One more thing: if you do go with hoof boots, don't overdo your first few rides. The manufacturer's instructions about how to put the boot on and adjust fit are very important. Limit those first rides to about 30 minutes and check to assure you've got the boots put on and adjusted properly, and are not seeing any tenderness, rubbing, or irritation. If you are, determine and fix the cause. If everything looks good, you're good to go.

February 25, 2010 – BLAZING NEW TRAILS

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Can I blaze a trail with a GPS?

Sure! Of course, you'll have to learn to properly use your GPS first. You can also blaze a trail with a map and compass.

Also important, make sure you have the owner's permission if creating a new trail on private property. And make sure you know the rules if in a state or national forest — many prohibit the blazing of new trails to protect the forest and wildlife. Think about it, if every visitor was blazing new trails, in time, we'd have no forests, just a bunch of trees with criss-cross paths throughout and little protection and habitats for wildlife.

February 24, 2010 – LONG HOT RIDING DAYS

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Is it safe to take a horse out all day in August?

Hmmmm...asking this question in February? Are you planning some nice summer vacation because you're sick of this winter? You don't mention where you live or why you're specifically concerned about the month of August, so I'm left speculating that you're concerned about having your horse out all day in the heat of late summer — am I right? Presuming the foregoing, the answer is: it depends. The following are the kinds of issues that could be a concern:

The temperature;
The humidity;
The availability of drinkable water;
The availability of some shade for an occasional cool-down and rest enroute to your destination and back;
The intended level of work you're putting your horse through while you have him out; and
The condition of your horse.

If your horse is in good condition and you won't be working him too hard on a course he usually can do, that's a good first step. Of course, you'll need to take it slower if the day is hot, even more so if it's humid, because both of these environmental factors determine how quickly your horse and you will be able to get rid of excess heat. You also need to have drinkable water available for your horse at various points along your route, and you need to have water along for yourself — if the heat is a concern for your horse on an all-day ride, it's also a concern for you.

Providing the foregoing conditions are met, you should be ok. After all, your horse is likely going to be out in the heat whether you're riding him or not, and he's going to need access to water and some shade. If you take it easy and take a ride within the limits of his conditioning with ample water, rest, and shade, there shouldn't be a problem.

February 23, 2010 – CAN'T CALM BORROWED HORSE

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

I'm a new rider and borrowing a horse from a friend to take lessons, but he's very excitable and scares me. I don't know how to calm him down.

I can understand the appeal of using a friend's horse to keep costs down as you get started and are evaluating how much you're going to enjoy horseback riding. BUT, as a new rider, this is likely not a good horse for you to learn to ride. You're going to have enough to learn with everything being new. Trying to control a spirited and unpredictable horse is a challenge for an experienced rider and a large potential for disaster for a new rider.

You need to either borrow a more appropriate horse for your current skill level or rent one from the barn or riding instructor. Otherwise, you're gambling with your safety and possibly even your life — don't do it! Riding should be safe and fun — your current situation is likely to be neither. Saving money should never trump your safety — get a calm, gentle horse to learn riding technique.

And good luck with learning to ride! For those of us for whom this is a passion, there's just nothing like the exhilaration of riding and the bond that grows between horse and rider. If you find this is the avocation for you, you're going to love it.

Be safe!

February 22, 2010 – THUNDERSTORMS — SAFER FOR HORSES INSIDE?

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Are horses safer inside a barn or outside during a thunderstorm?

Well, I'm not sure I can give you an absolute answer — I've not read of any studies investigating horse deaths caused by lightening strikes. But I can give you some pertinent facts and my opinion.

First, let's understand that lightening strikes of people and domesticated animals occurs very rarely. In the U.S., the average is about 58 human deaths per year due to lightening^†. While horses and other animals are also occasionally killed this way, it's rare that we hear of lightening killing horses.

That said, let's answer your question. I feel horses are safer inside. That's because they're less likely to be the highest point on the ground as they might be in an open field. The highest point is likely to be struck by lightening because it's the shortest path between the clouds and the ground for a cloud/ground strike. Therefore, unless your particular barn attracts lightening strikes more than other buildings for some unusual reason, your horses should be safer there.

Also important is the "spook factor". Thunderclaps are loud and loud noises often spook horses. Fortunately, horses usually feel quite safe in their stalls. That's where they often sleep and receive their daily feed, so it usually feels like a safe haven to them. As a result, thunder and lightening are less likely to spook horses when they're in their stalls.

^†Source: The National Weather Service, part of the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.

February 19, 2010 – COST OF HITCH COUPLE REPLACEMENT

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

How much does it cost to replace a bumper pull hitch on a horse trailer?

If the part you want to replace truly is on the bumper-pull trailer as you describe, and not on the tow vehicle, then that part is called the coupler and it usually costs from about $40 or so up to $150 depending on its weight rating. In the range of sizes that are used on horse trailers, you can expect to pay around $90 or $100 for a decent coupler, perhaps a little more. Plus, most of these couplers are welded to the trailer frame and you'll need to have that done after you've had the old coupler removed — that could be quite involved if it's welded in place.

Replacing a coupler is not something that just anyone can do. The old coupler must be removed without damaging the trailer frame to which it's attached. Then, the new coupler must be mounted, correctly positioned, and securely welded. Every aspect of this must be done properly to assure the safety of you and your passengers, your horses, and the other drivers on the road. You're likely looking at around $300 - $500 for the entire list of parts and labor to do this job right.

February 18, 2010 – FASTER GALLOPS BEFORE VIOLENT STORMS?

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Is it true that horses run faster before a violent storm or before highly windy conditions?

I don't know and have never heard or seen this behavior before. I will say that they can definitely run quite fast during a violent storm or when spooked by blown objects during windy conditions. For those reasons, I like to have my horse inside when the weather gets violent. Lightening and blown objects can be a danger to humans and any animals. Both can break large branches off trees or down the trees themselves with catastrophic effects. It's best if we, our horses, and our smaller pets are not outside at those times. And trust me, it's not fun being on a galloping horse when he's terrified, and I really like to gallop.

February 17, 2010 – TACK ROOM FIXTURES

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

What do I need for tack room fixtures in my new barn?

There's likely no limit to what you can add, but at minimal, you'll likely want the following:

A place to hang at least as many saddles as you have stalls; adding a few extra is a good idea. Often, each saddle rack will include a place to store the pad or numnah.
A place to hang a bridle for each stall.
A place to store whips (crops, dressage, longe, etc.)
A place for boarders to store their grooming tools, or better yet, their tack trunks. Some barns have lockable cabinets for each boarder to use for such storage.
A place to store horse medications, bandages, wraps, etc.

In addition, boarders always appreciate a few niceties if possible, such as a small fridge, running water, a microwave oven, etc. Of course, even if this is a private barn, these little niceties would be great for you, too. My barn has cold and hot running water in the tack room — that's really nice for washing hands after grooming and/or riding, plus to prepare medications. There's also a bathroom, and it includes a washing machine and dryer for keeping horse blankets and such clean.

As you can see, you're only limited by your imagination and how much you have to spend. The more you can add, the easier it is to maintain your horse, tack, and grooming equipment, as well as attend to injuries and administer minor treatments.

February 16, 2010 – HORSE CENTER OF GRAVITY

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Where is the center of gravity on a horse?

The actual center of gravity depends on the build of the horse. On the average horse, it's usually somewhere over the horse's front legs — give or take a little. The actual point is dependent upon many factors, such as the horses build and conformation, the length and weight of his neck, the size and weight of his head, etc. But there's even more to consider.

A horse regularly manipulates his center of gravity while moving and jumping. As he goes from the walk to the trot, it moves a little forward, the canter and gallop move it further forward. When a horse jumps, he raises his center of gravity to place it more over his haunches so he can use his rear legs to propel him up and over the jump.

As you can see from the foregoing explanation, it's not as simple as just picking a place on the body and thinking of the center of gravity as always being there.

February 15, 2010 – CUT THE POLEYS OFF?

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

If I buy an aussie saddle, can I have the poleys removed?

You probably could, buy why would you want to do so? Why not just buy a saddle without the poleys. Probably the closest to an Australian saddle without poleys is an endurance saddle.

We've gotten several questions in the last few months about riders wanting to modify their existing saddle or one they're considering buying. Saddle building and modification requires knowledge and experience in that specialty. It's not just a simple matter to make changes, such as punching extra holes in a halter or girth strap.

A saddle needs to provide support for its rider, and to properly distribute the rider's and saddle's weight over the horse's back. If either are done improperly, you can cause injury to the horse's back and skeletal system as well as risk injury or death for the rider — this is not something that should be attempted by anyone other than an experienced saddle builder. Also, it makes little sense to modify and likely damage an existing saddle. It's a much better idea to sell or trade the existing saddle for the kind of saddle you'd rather have.

February 12, 2010 – WILL TACK FREEZE?

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Will tack freeze if it gets too cold?

I'm sure it will, but I don't know at what temperature this will become a problem. Obviously, we know that leather shoe bottoms don't freeze at 32°F because all of us in northern latitudes have worn shoes with leather bottoms in temperatures at least down to 0°F. And the outsides of leather coats and gloves obviously don't freeze. Neither do the outside hides of polar bears and other very cold-weather animals. Therefore, it's probably a sure bet that saddles and bridles will be ok at the temperatures in which most of us are willing to ride.

I've ridden to as low as the teens (Fahrenheit) for several hours and my tack remained soft and supple. So, unless you live in an extremely cold climate or leave your tack out overnight or longer in freezing temperatures, you shouldn't have a problem.

The foregoing addresses using leather tack during cold weather riding. If you asked this question because you're storing or thinking of storing leather tack in a location that reaches below freezing temperatures, I don't think that's a good idea. The air will be very dry and the oils in the leather will evaporate over time causing the leather to crack and disintegrate. My comments were only meant to address that you shouldn't have a problem riding with leather tack in almost any weather you can tolerate.

February 11, 2010 – NOT FALLING OFF A HORSE?

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Does riding with stirrups mean you won't fall off?

No! Nothing can guarantee you won't fall off a horse. The best insurance is to become a great rider. It'll probably also help if you keep your riding to a walk. HOWEVER, I can't imagine having as much fun at the walk, so most of us decide that it's worth some risk to really enjoy what horses are good at and love to do, namely: to run.

Anyone who rides for a while will take at least a few tumbles. As we get older, the thought of taking additional tumbles is not all that appealing. But, it's generally so much fun to occasionally ride the faster gaits that most of us decide it's worth the risk of some scrapes and bruises. Truth be told, most riders rarely fall from a horse at any gait if they're appropriately careful, ride regularly, and stay in decent physical shape.

You may find it interesting to learn that occasionally riding without stirrups is a very good way to improve your balance and reaction time. It's even better to do that riding bareback, because if you're not in balance, you're no longer on the horse. It takes only a second or two of the horse moving for your body to immediately realize you need to sit up straight and be balanced — those are generally exciting moments. Riding bareback occasionally will do wonders for your balance and to correct posture. Do this where it's safer, such as in a ring or an arena. Your riding will greatly improve instantly and carry over to your riding using full tack.

The winter is a great time to practice riding bareback because riding in an indoor arena is very appealing due to the colder weather outside. And you'll also find that your horse throws a lot of heat that'll keep you warmer when you're in direct contact with his body because there's no saddle or pad between you. That extra heat is less pleasant during the warmer months.

February 10, 2010 – HOW OFTEN TO BRUSH

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

How often should I brush my horse?

Well, I do it every time I visit my horse and I try to visit him every day, but sometimes can't due to vocational or other responsibilities. But you should brush him at least two or three times across the week. It's especially important to do so when he's rolled in horse waste. That stuff can irritate his skin and make it tender.

Grooming also has other benefits. It allows you to examine every part of your horse's body and to find problems, such as injuries, bites, ticks, and other things. It also allows your horse to form a bond of trust with you, and I think that's something most horse owners actually want. Spending time with our horses is how they become accustomed to us being in their space and interacting with us. It's completely apparent to me how my horse relaxes when we're together. And the process also works in reverse and helps me to relax.

February 9, 2010 – BRAKE CONTROLLER STAYING ON

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

My trailer brake controller doesn't have an on/off switch, so it stays on whenever my truck is running, even without a trailer connected. It also stays on after I shut my truck off. Is this good?

Today's controllers don't have an On/Off switch intentionally. That's because the manufacturer doesn't want you to be able to accidently turn it off when towing and losing trailer braking ability. However, many of the controllers have a connector on the back that you can remove when you're not towing a trailer.

That said, most controllers also have a timed power save feature that shuts the controller down about 10 or 15 minutes after you've turned your tow vehicle off. And while it's on for those 10 or 15 minutes, plus when your truck is running, it's drawing very little power. The only time it draws any appreciable power is when you're applying the brakes with a trailer connected.

So, while you can pull the connector, there's no need to do so and most of the manufacturers recommend to just let the controller stay on.

February 8, 2010 – PROBLEMS WITH REINS

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

I'm having trouble with my reins. I ride English and the thin reins dig into my hands.

The first thing I would do is look at your riding technique. If your reins are digging into your hands, it sounds as if you could be fighting your horse. If that's the case, a little training for both of you could help a lot. Find a good riding instructor who's also a decent horse trainer — for this issue, it will help if this can be the same person.

Riding your horse should not be a battle for either of you. In fact, it should be fun for both your horse and you regardless of your riding discipline. Because keeping your horse soft, supple, and responsive requires consistency for him/her to remain that way, you need to learn how to be consistent and how to correct problems while they're minor. As for the reins themselves, that is somewhat of a personal preference. Of course, if you're showing, regulations will dictate your tack. But if you're not, or for practice when you're not showing, you can use whatever you like.

I use rope reins. I have big hands and like the added diameter of the reins so that they feel substantial in my hands, yet they're soft and light. In fact, as a trail rider, I select each piece of tack so that it meets my needs and preferences irrespective of any discipline. I initially started out riding English and appreciate the techniques that I learned, but I was never comfortable in that tiny saddle, especially with the 3 - 6 hour trail rides that I like best.

But, also keep in mind that there is no right or wrong and that each piece and style of tack has a purpose. You need to select each for the type and discipline of riding you do, and then add the component of preference where you can to make your rides as comfortable and enjoyable as possible.

Good luck!

February 5, 2010 – PREVENTING WATER PAIL FREEZING IN THE BARN

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

The water in pails of the stalls in my barn are freezing in some of this cold weather. Breaking the ice isn't easy or fun. What better options do I have?

There are two options you have:

You can use insulated pail holders. Some advertise that they can keep the water from freezing for up to 24 hours. Of course, that will depend on the temperature of the water that you initially place into the pails.
If you're in a very cold area and need more, you can use electric pail holders. These holders actually plug into a receptacle and have a heater. Of course, that means it will increase your electric bill some, but if their ads can be believed, it's not that much money to use these appliances.

For suppliers, I did a search in QueryHorse for "heated buckets" and got hundreds of links to both articles about this issue and dealers selling such products.

February 4, 2010 – COLD BARNS

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

How cold should I let my barn get?

Well, unless you have heat in your barn, you really don't have an option. But don't worry, horses would be living outside all the time if we humans didn't adopt and care for them. And surprisingly, those that live outdoors full time seem to be the healthiest. That means that we should strive to keep them outside as much as possible.

The foregoing notwithstanding, I do prefer to bring my horse into the barn when we're getting heavy rain and the weather is near freezing. At those times, it's just too easy for a horse to suffer hypothermia once he gets really wet and losing heat quickly. I feel similarly when we get windy days in very low, near or below zero temperatures.

February 3, 2010 – HOW LONG CAN HE WEAR HIS BOOTS?

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

How long can I leave hoof boots on my horse?

Generally, the manufacturers recommend that you not leave hoof boots on for more than 24 hours. This is will avoid problems from bacteria introduced by horse perspiration. Removing them allows the boots to dry out and the bacteria will die.

As a user of hoof boots myself, I also recommend that you rinse them after each use to remove dirt, mud, and any debris that got lodged inside and could upset your horse's footing. You don't want your horse to walk unnaturally due to foreign matter inside one or more boots. Just rinse the boots clean and let them dry overnight. That will also reduce smells from whatever organic matter the boot picked up crossing streams or going through mud.

February 2, 2010 – HORSE CRAZINESS FROM SNOW?

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Can snow make a horse act crazy?

I doubt it. I presume you're seeing your horse get excited by snow and frolicking around in it; dogs do the same thing and so do kids. The reason animals (and kids) often do this is because snow is not a constant except way up north — it's a novelty. So, when we get some snow on the ground, many animals love to run in it and kick it up. This is one way you see horses playing. The excitement usually diminishes after they've played around for a while.

February 1, 2010 – LEATHER CARE

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

What part of my saddle do I need to oil before riding?

You should oil all the leather parts. If you also polish the hardware, I like to do that before the oiling. Then, I like to do a light oil wipe on my saddle every week or so unless I'm not able to ride. Tack needs little maintenance when it's not used as long as it's stored in a cool, dry room and not in direct sunlight or near some form of heat, such as a radiator. If I ever get caught in the rain or mud on a ride, or my saddle gets wet for any other reason, I want to immediately clean (in the case of mud), dry, and and oil my saddle.

Water left in is not good for cured leather and promotes the growth of mold. Once mold has started, it's almost impossible to get it all out and will usually become a problem and continue growing again when the weather gets humid. The best way to deal with mold is to avoid letting it start growing in your leather in the first place. That means you need to act fast when your tack gets wet. The water bonds with the oil in the leather and essentially washes the oil away. The water then provides a growth medium for the mold spores to actually grow in the leather and break it down thereby weakening it.

When your tack gets wet, upon returning to the barn at the end of your ride, clean the leather of any mud or other grime. Then, let your saddle air-dry naturally, don't use any heat source nor place your saddle near one. When your tack is almost dry, but not completely, apply a leather cleaner. It will bond with the remaining water molecules and remove them as well as adding some oil to the leather to replace the water. Finally, re-apply whatever conditioner or saddle oil you use to keep the leather supple. You don't want to apply leather cleaner or oil when the leather is wet and trap water in the leather. And you also don't want the leather to dry completely because it will get very stiff and using too much force can actually crack and break the leather because it has little flexibility when completely dry with no oils.

The best way to preserve any leather goods for many years is to properly store them, avoid water and rain when possible, and immediately tend to tack if you should get caught in the rain, or worse, you take your horse into a stream or pond to drink during a ride and he/she snookers you by rolling in the water with tack on. This can happen quickly and will catch a rider unaware until it's too late. It's not yet happened to me, but I had a close call when my horse started pawing at the water with one of his front legs. I knew what was coming next (because it happened to a riding friend while I watched in horror), so I stopped talking to my riding buddies and high-tailed it out of the water fairly quickly.

January 29, 2010 – THINGS THAT SPOOK A HORSE

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

What kinds of things will spook a horse?

Wow! That's quite a question! Where do I begin?

Horses can be spooked by almost anything. But a lot has to do with the general personality of the horse, and also his experience. A high-strung horse could spook with the littlest noise because he's always "near the edge". And a young horse will often be skittish just because he's not seen much and everything new can initially look dangerous. As he gets exposed to more situations and realizes they don't pose a threat, he becomes more secure, self-confident, and less skittish.

Consider a small, two-foot wide brook that's just three inches deep. Most older horses will cross this without a problem. But, many a new trail horse is initially terrified by such a brook because it's moving. Once they've learned it won't attack, they can still be afraid and attempt to jump it because they can't see the bottom due to reflections and are afraid to "fall in". That may seem silly to us, but it can be terrifying to an inexperienced horse.

As for other possible spook sources, you've got: other animals (deer, dogs, birds, etc.), bees, moving leaves and trees, flapping cloth (coats, flags, sheets on a clothes line, etc.), a swinging or banging door, crossing a wooden bridge, a piece of paper being blown across the gorund, almost anything — the list goes on and on.

January 28, 2010 – BARN ELECTRICITY COSTS

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

How many kilowatt hours a month for a horse barn?

That's a good question! I actually "kind of" answered it in an article I wrote for Practical Horseman in 2009. That article recommended the use of CFL lighting for the barn to reduce electricity costs. It also included a table for the electrical usage of typical incandescent bulbs and their CFL counterpart so the reader could calculate current power costs and savings by switching to CFLs. The article will answer your question and you can read it right here on QueryHorse. It's entitled: Better Barn Lighting.

January 27, 2010 – BAD USE FOR HORSE MANURE

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Is it ok to use horse manure or a manure/dirt mix for footing in a riding ring?

Definitely not! While all horses will occasionally walk through droppings in their stall or paddock, those droppings harbor bacteria. That's one reason why it's important to pick your horse's hooves daily if you want to avoid potential hoof problems. Veterinarians and farriers will tell you that Thrush and White-Line Disease are generally caused by waste products in a horse's hooves. The longer it's there without being removed, the greater the chances of developing these diseases.

If you want to use horse manure for something constructive, consider composting. There are many articles available on this topic.

January 26, 2010 – GALLOPING DOWNHILL

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

What is the best saddle to use when galloping downhill?

It seems we have a preponderance of saddle questions lately. I must admit to feeling strongly that it's not a good idea to canter or gallop downhill. If your horse should ever trip and fall, the chance of him breaking a front leg is higher than at slower speeds, and the chance of a trip happening is higher when going downhill because of the force of gravity working to accelerate you down the slope.

However, if you're insistent about speeding down slopes on a horse, the knee poleys on Australian saddles are specifically designed to keep the rider in the saddle while going downhill and not let him go over the horse's neck while the horse tries to limit its speed or tries to stop. Therefore, at any speed from the walk to something faster, an Australian saddle is more likely to keep you in the seat than any other design.

January 25, 2010 – JUMPING IN A WESTERN SADDLE WITHOUT HORN?

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Is it ok to jump in a western saddle if it doesn't have a horn?

I've never seen a Western saddle without a horn. Of course, that doesn't mean they don't exist. Many endurance saddles look like a Western saddle without a horn; perhaps that's what you're describing. Regardless, a saddle without a horn doesn't necessarily mean you can jump in it.

Saddles must be designed for jumping, and that means more than just having no horn. There are forces occurring with each jump that the saddle must be able to properly distribute over the horse's back. We have an article that gives a more comprehensive treatment to this subject entitled: Is it Safe to Jump in a Western Saddle?

January 22, 2010 – TRAILERING IN THE RAIN

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Is it safe to trailer horses when it's raining?

Yes it is. The precautions you need to take to minimize the additional risks of wet roads are the same as when you drive without a trailer. Those risks are:

Less traction for steering;
Less traction for stopping;
Less visibility due to falling rain;
Compromised visibility from reflections due to wet roads when driving at night;
And if there's wind, the lower traction means a greater chance of being blown off the road or into another lane.

The resolution to all of the foregoing is the same: slow down and drive more cautiously. Also, be more alert for other drivers that should have slowed down, but are driving too fast and thereby raising the possibility they may lose control and come into your lane. If you do these things, you significantly reduce the chances of an accident and increase the chances of getting you, your passengers, and your horses home safely.

January 21, 2010 – RIDING AFTER REMOVING SHOES

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

How long should I have to wait to ride my horse after having his shoes removed?

Unless your farrier tells you otherwise for some foot related ailment or damage that needs to heal, you should be able to ride him right away. You may want to limit your initial riding to soft surfaces, such as grass and sand. That's because your horse may initially be a little tender-footed if you ride him on rocky surfaces. If that's the case, give your horse a week or two to toughen up the bottoms of his feet; though, you can still ride him on those softer surfaces during this period.

For horses that generally live on soft surfaces most of their turnout time, such as grassy paddocks, they can always be tender-footed when riding on rocky ground because their feet never have to toughen up. In those cases, some boots might be necessary — that's what I've had to do for my horse because all the paddocks are grassy and don't have any rocky or hard surfaces. Therefore, he only experiences hard ground on the trail when we ride in rocky or hard areas. Boots on his front feet have made all the difference and has allowed us to ride anywhere — he remains barefoot in back all the time.

January 20, 2010 – WINTER RIDING GLOVES

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Should I wear thin gloves while riding?

You should wear whatever thickness gloves keep your fingers and hands adequately warm. What you should not do, is wrap the reins around your hands — that could be very dangerous! If you were to fall, the tension on a rein wrapped around your hand(s) could tighten and drag you along. Instead, hold one reins in your hands in whatever way you were taught when first learning to ride. If you never took formal riding lessons, you may want to ask a riding instructor or a rider who has taken lessons in your discipline.

As for the gloves themselves, I prefer gloves made specifically for riding. They come in different thicknesses to address different degrees of cold. I carry a thick pair and a thinner pair in my winter riding coat. The two pairs allow me to switch from the thicker pair to the thinner as I warm up. And if it gets warmer than expected, I have a third option of riding without gloves until it gets colder or I cool down.

January 19, 2010 – GALLOPING REALLY FAST

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

My friends I ride with say we go fast enough, but I want to gallop my horse faster. Is there anything wrong with that?

Not at all. But make sure you know what you're doing. It reminds me of the Chinese Curse, which paraphrased is: be careful what you wish for; you just might get it. I occasionally hear riders wanting to go much faster (usually from men; maybe it's one of our insecurity things...) Here's a little to think about.

A Real Gallop!

When most riders gallop, their horses are not running flat out. Almost any horse can go a lot faster than what we riders do at our typical gallops. I learned this one time when I was riding my horse alone and we were getting close to a pond that always seems to spook him. Every time we go into that area, he becomes afraid. I wanted him to trust in me and pushed him to go closer. We got to within a couple hundred feet of the pond and its assorted noises, and I felt we had gone far enough — he had done everything I had asked, even though I know he didn't want to. So, I turned him around and we started walking away from the area. He was doing fine, but his ears were aimed to the rear and I could tell we weren't leaving the area fast enough for him, so I put him into a trot — he went very, very willingly. I increased to a canter, and when we went to the gallop, I decided to let him determine the speed. He accelerated into a fast gallop, then a faster gallop, and then went even faster than I thought he could go and was still accelerating when I decided that we were going more than fast enough for me. I had no idea my horse could run that fast and he was still accelerating.

Similarly, a couple of years ago, I galloped the horse of a friend that I've ridden many times and always enjoy. He's a 17-2 hh ex-race Thoroughbred that won some serious money in his racing days. I really wanted to get him to a fast gallop so I could see what a jockey experiences in a race — it was fast — really fast! His owner told me she doubted he was running full-tilt. After my experience with my own horse (only about 16 hh) that I limited while he was still accelerating, I feel my friend is right that I haven't yet experienced what her horse is fully capable of.

The foregoing is just a way to get you thinking about just how fast you'd like to go that is within your comfort and skill range. Accelerate slowly, do it in stages, and do in a safe location with good footing, minimal chances of spook sources (dogs, wild animals, hunters, bicyclists, etc.), and with other humans around in case something happens.

Riding fast on horses is a rush and most horses enjoy it as much as their riders. But make sure you're ready for what you're going to experience and do it in the safest way possible. Other than that, have fun!

January 15, 2010 – WINTER TROTTING

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Is it ok to trot my horse in the winter time?

I presume you mean when you're riding him? Yes, it's ok, as long as you consider several things:

Let him warm up first for ten minutes or so at the walk to get his joints and muscles warmed and moving;
Select a location where there is no packed snow, ice, or other slippery surface;
Try also to use a surface that's not frozen hard;
When you begin trotting, start slowly to give your horse more time to warm up as you escalate his work and heart rate;
Don't work him so hard that he develops a sweat; and
Provide an adequately long and gradual cool down period so he doesn't get a chill, cools down slowly, and whatever perspiration he might have has time to evaporate while his body is still quite warm from working.

Winter is not a time that you and your horse have to give up working. Rather, it's a time when you must both take additional cautions to avoid injury and stresses not of a concern during the warmer months.

January 14, 2010 – SHOULD MY HORSE BE RIDDEN WITH A BLANKET?

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Is it a good idea to keep a blanket on my horse while riding in cold weather? My riding friends say no, but after all, I where a coat.

Definitely not. You need to keep in mind that wild horses were not born with blankets. And they don't live with blankets, yet, they run and survive cold, windy, winter nights out in the weather. To do so, they've developed winter hair and a metabolism that can tolerate the cold. Remember also that their larger mass concentrates a lot of heat in their body. It may seem counter intuitive, but wild horses are found generally healthier than domesticated horses and catch cold very rarely.

So, keeping a blanket on your horse while riding her is very likely to make her perspire and overheat. Then, removing it will expose her now wet body to very cold air which will cause her to lose heat very quickly, maybe much too quickly and setting her up for potential life-threatening hypothermia.

If you clip your horse, and therefore, keep her blanketed when in the barn, you still should remove her blanket when you tack her up and ride her. When you're done, remove her tack and it may be a good idea to place a cooler on her for an hour or so to keep her warm and absorb any perspiration. After that hour, remove the cooler, replace with a dry blanket, and she should be fine until your next lesson/ride.

January 13, 2010 – MULTI-USE EQUINE APPAREL

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Can I wear riding clothes skiing?

Sure! Why not? I purchased a super, multi-layer, rip-stop, heavy-duty nylon jacket from L.L.Bean® that I wear for riding. And I often wear my riding gloves for certain cold-weather outdoor work that requires dexterity, so you can certainly wear your riding clothes for skiing. That is, as long as you don't mind whatever looks you might get.

January 12, 2010 – ADDING PAIL REFILL PLUMBING TO BARN STALLS

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

I'm thinking about installing water lines to each stall in the barn to reduce the work of filling drinking pails, but I don't know what to do about the water lines during the winter. Any ideas?

At minimum, you'll need to have a main shut-off valve that you can turn off when the temperature inside the barn drops below freezing. When you want to fill the pails, you can turn the main valve on, fill each pail with the valve located in each stall in turn, and finally turn the main valve off when you're done. Then, you must go to each stall valve and open it until the water is drained out, turn it off, and then move to the next stall until all lines have been drained. This will prevent line freezing.

Another option is to put heat tape around all of the water pipe. But if you do this, you also need to put pipe insulation over the heat tape. If you don't, most of the heat will be lost to the air, the tape will stay turned on, and you'll pay a hefty electric bill. If you installed plastic pipe, MAKE SURE you use heat tape designed for plastic pipe.

One more thing: make sure your main shut-off valve is located in a heated space or it, too, will freeze. If that should happen, you'll have no running water even if you can turn it on and you'll possibly have a leak once the pipes thaw due to damage from freeze expansion. Locating the shut-off valve in a heated space avoids this risk.

January 11, 2010 – PASTURE ACRES PER HORSE

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

How many acres of pasture are needed to support a horse?

Generally, the rule of thumb is 1.5 acres per horse. But this is if the pasture grass is all that the horse eats. If you supplement with hay, you can get down to an acre per horse.

Obviously, many people keep horses in less space, but the pasture usually deteriorates because the horses will prefer the grass to the hay until there's no grass left. For best pasturing, it's better to have ample pasture and to also rotate the pastures — that is, they should occasionally have the horses removed and be left alone for a month or two. They should also be fertilized with an equine-safe fertilizer in the spring of each year, and they should be regularly cleaned when occupied by horses. Horse manure is a fertilizer itself, but to use it as one, manure piles must be regularly broken up and spread around. Otherwise, you'll get crop burning and too high a nitrogen concentration where the manure is located and too little where it isn't.

Pasture management is a science unto itself and there are lots of great books on this topic as well as documents you can find by searching on the Web.

January 8, 2010 – TIME FOR A BARN CHANGE?

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

I'm not that happy with my barn, but not sure whether or not I should leave.

I feel the two most important questions you should ask yourself are whether or not you feel your horse is well-cared for, and whether or not you still look forward to going to your barn. If you think back across the years of your riding experience, whether two years or twenty, I think you'll agree that you've usually looked forward to going to the barn and likely got excited as you were getting ready to go. If you're not feeling that way anymore, it's clear that something has changed, either in you or at the barn, and it's time to make some changes so that your needs are met and you also get excited again. But before you do that, it'll be very helpful if you can think hard and determine what it is you want that you're not getting.

For example:

Are you unhappy with your horse's care?
Do you sense your horse is unhappy, uncomfortable, or being intimidated by other horses or the barn help?
Are you unhappy because you feel the barn is deteriorating and you worry about your horse's safety, or him getting free and hurt because fences or some such are not being adequately maintained?
Are you unhappy or uncomfortable with the barn owner or his/her workers?
Are you unhappy or uncomfortable with other boarders?
Has the focus of the barn's disciplines changed or have yours? For example, I'm a trail rider, so all I care about regarding a barn is the care of my horse and the ability to ride with other, likable boarders. But if your passion is a ring-based discipline, such as dressage, then you care about there being an arena and how it's maintained, as well as instructional services. If the barn changes its focus or you change disciplines, your current barn may not "fit" as well as it once did.
Is the distance between your home and the barn greater than you'd like? Or are you short on time and you can't afford to spend as long driving to and from the barn?
Has the barn raised its rates higher than you feel you can afford or that you feel it's worth?

With any of the above items, it's showing that you're not happy with your current barn or that it no longer is meeting your needs. In either case, I'd start by having a chat with the barn owner. It's possible that you can both work things out so you're again happy to go there. But if that's not possible, the barn owner makes it uncomfortable for boarders to have any input, or the problem is related to the barn's distance or other boarders, it's time to find another barn that does meet the needs of you and your horse.

Having your own horse and spending time where he lives needs to be fun for both of you. When it's not, then it's time for a change of venue for both of you. We have an article you may want to read entitled: Finding the "RIGHT" Barn For You.

January 7, 2010 – WINTER TACK CARE?

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

I care for my saddle by keeping it oiled in warmer months because of it sometimes getting wet from rain and puddle splashes. That means I don't have to worry about it in the winter months, right?

Not quite. You are correct that removing and keeping moisture out of your leather tack will keep it in better shape and make it last much longer. But it's important to continue leather care in the winter for a different reason: dryness.

In areas of cold winters, the air can hold much less moisture as the air gets colder. While you might think that's good, remember that leather was once living tissue on a cattle herd member. Therefore, it cannot be too wet nor too dry. When leather gets too wet with moisture, it rots and mold can grow on it. When it gets too dry, the oil itself will evaporate leaving the leather stiff and cracking. Of course, you'd rather keep the leather supple with a leather conditioner than moisture from water. Giving your saddle regular care and an occasional light wiping with a good saddle conditioner will help keep your leather in good condition.

If you consider this all a pain, consider getting a synthetic saddle. These saddles can get thoroughly wet from a dunking or go through the entire winter without service — they require very little care other than occasional cleaning.

January 6, 2010 – KEEPING YOUR FACE WARM

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

I'm finding winter riding difficult with cold air and wind. I've read your winter riding article and it was very helpful, but my eyes are watering from the wind and my cheeks and nose get cold, What can I do?

We're glad you've found our winter riding article helpful (see Winter Riding & Staying Warm). Keeping one's face warm is possible and requires a little more work. But before we go there, it's important to assure you're keeping your head warm. If it's exposed and gets cold, there's much less heat left for other parts of your body because it will steal whatever heat it needs to warm your brain — you'd otherwise die.

There are ski-masks you can wear that have an open area for your eyes, nose, and mouth while covering your forehead, cheeks and neck. You can then use a ski goggles to cover your eyes. The goggles will keep cold air, snow, and rain out of your eyes. There's not much more you can do to protect your face. You must leave a hole for your nose and mouth, because otherwise, your mask will get wet from your exhalation. That's not only uncomfortable, it can be dangerous in freezing weather in that it could freeze along with the skin beneath it causing damage to your face from frostbite.

January 5, 2010 – JUMPING IN THE SNOW

"Horse Guy" question/feedback:

Is it safe to jump a horse in the snow?

I wouldn't do it. I fear the horse could slip upon landing and either strain itself or actually fall and get hurt. There is obviously risk for the rider also.

And it's not just about the landing. Think what would happen is the horse were to slip on the approach to the jump just as he was about to launch. Horse and rider would end up crashing into the jump itself. Jumping should only be attempted when the footing is safe — snow can be very slippery and undermines safety in jumping.

January 4, 2010 – CALORIES BURNED MUCKING

Reposted as separate article. See: Calories Burned Mucking Stalls article.

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